Old Town Valencia

I was excited to start exploring the Mediterranean city of Valencia. Valencia is Spain’s 3rd largest city, and it has one of Europe’s largest historical centers. As a matter of fact, it took me more than 1 day to explore the Old Town.

The region of Valencia (of which the city of Valencia is the capital) has 2 official languages: Spanish and Valencian. Because of this, I often saw trilingual signage (Spanish, Valencian, and English), rather than bilingual (Spanish and English) like I did in Madrid. The name of the square in Spanish is Plaza de la Reina. “Plaça” is Valencian. There is some controversy over whether Valencian is a regional dialect of Catalan (or even the same language called by a different name) or a completely separate language, like Catalan is separate from Spanish. There’s likely to be some regional pride going into the controversy.

Real Basílica de Nuestra Señora de los Desamparados

Real Basílica de Nuestra Señora de los Desamparados sits on the far side of the cathedral Plaça de la Reina. The royal basilica houses the shrine of the Virgen de los Desamparados (Our Lady of the Forsaken), the patron saint of Valencia. The basilica was built in the 17th century. Construction began in the Renaissance style and was completed in the Baroque style–reflecting the changing of styles during the period and how the changes generally came later to Spain than much of Europe.

Outside the basilica, on the Plaça de la Verge, is the Turia Fountain. Neptune lazes in the Turia. The Turia is a Spanish river that reaches the Mediterranean in Valencia.

The fountain reminds me of fountains I saw in Turin representing the Po and the Dora Riparia and probably similar allegorical river fountains I’ve see along my travels.

Fresco on the basilica’s dome by Spanish Baroque painter Antonio Palomino.

Torres de Serranos

The 14th-century Gothic-style gate is 1 of the few remaining elements of Valencia’s medieval city wall. During the Spanish Civil War, works of art from the Prado Museum were stored here for safekeeping.

Miguelete Tower

There’s the cathedral’s bell tower, and I’m getting ready to climb!

The cathedral’s 15th-century Gothic tower is named Miguelete for the bell used to ring in the hours. The tower is 207 feet tall. The terrace is at 167 feet, with 207 steps to get there.

View from the top looking north. Torres de Serranos is right there in the middle.

View looking west towards the interior of Spain.

Due to the time of day, I had a hard time getting a picture looking southeast. However, I kept this picture because it gives a preview of the City of Arts and Sciences, the symbol of modern Valencia. It’s complex with the white, curved shapes in the center of the picture.

*El Miguelete*, the bell that gives the tower its name.

Water Tribunal

The bailiff takes charges as the representatives take their seats in chairs that are hundreds of years old.

A good share of travelers are aware of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. I try to point them out in my travels. I’m sure fewer travelers are aware of items of UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. These are important examples of world culture that are not fixed, like buildings or natural sites are. One such item of intangible cultural heritage is the Water Tribunal of the plain of Valencia. The tribunal takes place every Thursday at noon outside the cathedral.

There seemed to be a lot of hubbub going on in conjunction with the Water Tribunal when I was there, so I wondered if this a special edition of the tribunal for some reason.

The tribunal began in the 10th century to settle disputes among farmers relating to the irrigation of the Turia. It’s the world’s oldest still-active court, and Europe’s oldest still-active democratic institution. Today, the tribunal is made up of 1 representative from each of 9 areas. The tribunal is conducted in Valencian. Disputes are resolved quickly, and results are final.

Valencia Cathedral

The monstrance of Valencia is kept in the cathedral. The world’s largest monstrance, it’s used to display the Holy Eucharist through the streets of Valencia during the feast of Corpus Christi.

The monstrance is made of 1,300 pounds of silver, 18 pounds of gold, and hundreds of precious stones and pearls. It was built to replace the monstrance that was destroyed during the Spanish Civil War.

The cathedral choir, surrounded by figures made of gilded wood.

The cathedral was built from the 13th to the 15th century, mostly in the Gothic style.

This stained glass window was created in 1962 to celebrate the 700th anniversary of the laying of the 1st stone in the construction of the cathedral. The figures represent prominent married Valencian couples.

*Angels Playing Music*, a Renaissance element over the main chapel created by Italian painters Paolo da San Leocadio and Francesco Pagano. The fresco was hidden by a Baroque ceiling for 330 years until it was rediscovered and restored.

The silver-plated bronze reliquary that contains the left arm of Saint Vincent the Martyr. Such the pleasant form of veneration!

Altarpiece in the Chapel of Saint Dionysius and Saint Margaret by Spanish Renaissance painter Vicente Masip.

Stained glass window depicting the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary.

Believe it or not, the cup that’s hard to make out behind the glass is the Holy Grail. Like I said, believe it or not! It’s been in possession of the cathedral since 1436. The agate (or carnelian) cup itself may be dated to the 1st century. The handles and base are medieval.

Silk Exchange

The Silk Exchange is a late Valencian Gothic building built from 1482 to 1533. Prior to the 20th century, Valencia was a major silk-manufacturing center. The Silk Exchange was where merchants contracted with each other.

A wider shot of the Silk Exchange. I couldn’t get the flag in the wide shot, which is why I included 2 separate shots.

One of the Silk Exchange’s symbolic gargoyles.

Dragon knocker on a door at the Silk Exchange.

Inside the walls of the Silk Exchange, the Court of Orange Trees.

The defining features in the Silk Exchange’s Trading Hall are the stunning twisted columns.

A full-length view of the twisted columns.

Peeking out at the Court of Orange Trees from the Trading Hall.

The beautiful function rooms upstairs at the Silk Exchange.

The amazing coffered ceiling above the function room.

Close-up view of the fantastic detail on the coffered ceiling.

More of the spectacular detail on the coffered ceiling.

National Museum of Ceramics and Decorative Arts “González Martí”

Anyone need a ride? *The Carriage of the Nymphs*, an 18th-century royal carriage.

My last sightseeing stop for the day was the National Museum of Ceramics and Decorative Arts “González Martí”. The museum is housed in a palace built in the 15th century in the Gothic style for a Valencian nobleman. It the 18th century, it was radically renovated in a mostly Rococo style. Ownership of the palace was transferred to the Spanish government in 1947 to house the ceramics collection of civil-minded artist Manuel González Marti, the museum’s namesake.

A gorgeous 19th-century cabinet on a stand.

Lions in art are always devouring some unfortunate creature. In this case, I believe it’s a imperial eagle.

On the ceiling of the palace’s dining room, *Light fecundating Creation*, an 1862 allegorical painting of creation by Valencia painter Rafael Montesinos Ramiro.

Beautiful furniture in the smoking room. A 17th-century Flemish tapestry hangs on the wall.

A red lion on a tile. This one is taking a break from devouring another animal.

A plaque of Saint Roch, who was saved from starvation with a dog carrying a bagel. Here he’s showing his bubonic plague sores to an angel while the bagel-bearing canine patiently waits.

Lady of Spain, I just adore you! This Art Deco polychrome ceramic sculpture portrays Elena Plá Toda, the winner of a 1930 Spanish beauty pageant.

The kitchen has been furnished with 18th- and 19th-century decorative items and motifs.

How beautiful are this 17th-century sideboard and table?

Hey, look at me taking a picture of myself in this porcelain-ringed mirror in the porcelain room!

18th- and 19th-century Spanish guitars in the palace’s ballroom.

The Rococo main entrance to the palace/museum erases all signs of its Gothic past.

I had a full day of sightseeing, and I still didn’t see all that Valencia’s Old Town had to offer. There will be a little more of that on Day 5. In the meantime, I headed back to my room to rest before going out for a very traditional Valencian meal.

[Factual information is primarily gathered from Wikipedia, so you know it must be true.]