Southern and Eastern Beijing

Welcome to Day 7, the day I fell and hurt my back. I was afraid the rest of my trip could be in jeopardy. It was also the day I paid an emperor’s ransom for some goofy pictures of me. Despite some mishaps, it was on this day that I realized Shanghai might be a fabulously cosmopolitan city, but Beijing is where it’s at when it comes to must-see cultural heritage sites. The Forbidden City is just the beginning.

Temple of Heaven

Aah! I did find some tai chi enthusiasts stretching out to more soothing tones. Temple of Heaven, Beijing, China, Asia. — Aah! I did find some tai chi enthusiasts stretching out to more soothing tones.

The magnificent Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests. It is one of the iconic symbols of Beijing. It sits on a 3-tiered marble platform 20-feet high and 300-feet around. Temple of Heaven, Beijing, China, Asia. — The magnificent Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests. It is one of the iconic symbols of Beijing. It sits on a 3-tiered marble platform 20-feet high and 300-feet around.

How beautiful is this? And not a single nail was used in the construction of this large wooden structure. Temple of Heaven, Beijing, China, Asia. — How beautiful is this? And not a single nail was used in the construction of this large wooden structure.

Did you think the interior was going to be any less dazzling than the exterior? Temple of Heaven, Beijing, China, Asia. — Did you think the interior was going to be any less dazzling than the exterior?

The fabulous ceiling. Many of the elements at the Temple of Heaven, including the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests, are circular. The circle represents heaven. On a map of the Temple of Heaven, the northern part is a semicircle, while the southern part is square. This symbolizes heaven over earth. Temple of Heaven, Beijing, China, Asia. — The fabulous ceiling. Many of the elements at the Temple of Heaven, including the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests, are circular. The circle represents heaven. On a map of the Temple of Heaven, the northern part is a semicircle, while the southern part is square. This symbolizes heaven over earth.

Imperial dragons. You can tell they're imperial because they are yellow (the emperor's color) and they have 5 toes. Temple of Heaven, Beijing, China, Asia. — Imperial dragons. You can tell they’re imperial because they are yellow (the emperor’s color) and they have 5 toes.

At this point, I decided to take a look at the small hall behind the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests. The smaller hall was down a set of steps, a very icy set of steps. As I descended, my feet flew out in front of me. I went down and went down hard. My back hit the stone step so hard, I was sure I had broken it. My back, not the step, that is. The step would be perfectly fine. I didn’t have a chance to compose myself because I went sliding down the icy steps. As I was sliding, I was pondering the un-likelihood that I would be able to sue to Beijing Municipality. When I finally came to a rest, a kind elderly man came down the treacherous steps to assist me. Much to my surprise, I was able to get up. The man handed me my travel guidebook, which had fallen out of my pocket. I was struck by how kind the man was even though he was not able to speak much English.

I was definitely in pain. I wondered if this was the end of my sightseeing for my trip. I climbed back up the stairs. Very carefully. I realized that I was able to walk with some effort. The Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests was just as stunning as it had been before my fall. And there were pictures to be taken. I had work to do. I soldiered on.

Near-crippling pain or not, I had one more shot to get of the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests. The money shot. Temple of Heaven, Beijing, China, Asia. — Near-crippling pain or not, I had one more shot to get of the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests. The money shot.

As I continued to walk through the grounds of the Temple of Heaven, I noticed that if I walked perfectly straight and didn’t twist or bend at all, my back was okay. Otherwise, OUCH!! So I did the best I could not to twist and shout. Tying my shoes for the rest of my trip, however, was agonizing. Naturally, my shoes became untied with merciless frequency. (And getting into and out of bed became lengthy ordeals to be endured.)

The Temple of Heaven's "Nine-Dragon Juniper". Over 500 years old, it is so named because the vertical grooves in its trunk are like 9 dragons shooting up to the sky. Temple of Heaven, Beijing, China, Asia. — The Temple of Heaven’s “Nine-Dragon Juniper”. Over 500 years old, it is so named because the vertical grooves in its trunk are like 9 dragons shooting up to the sky.

After lunch at the Temple of Heaven, I strolled past a gift shop. I noticed an elaborate photography setup. I always like to bring back a goofy picture on my trips. As I was contemplating going for it, a woman asked me if I wanted my picture taken. Of course I did. I sort of got ripped off, but I can’t say I have nothing to show for it. If you haven’t read what happened or seen my supremely goofy pictures already (or understandably would like to see them again), check them out by clicking here. After lunch, there was still plenty of the Temple of Heaven to see. Like so much in China, it is an enormous site.

The charming Imperial Vault of Heaven, a mini Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests. (Separate admission required!) Temple of Heaven, Beijing, China, Asia. — The charming Imperial Vault of Heaven, a mini Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests. (Separate admission required!)

Beautiful detail inside the Imperial Vault. Temple of Heaven, Beijing, China, Asia. — Beautiful detail inside the Imperial Vault.

Despite all the impressive traditional architecture throughout, the ceremonial focal point of the Temple of Heaven is the Circular Mound Altar. It was on this altar, laden with symbolism (much to do with the imperial number 9), that the emperor made the annual sacrifice on the winter solstice. Temple of Heaven, Beijing, China, Asia. — Despite all the impressive traditional architecture throughout, the ceremonial focal point of the Temple of Heaven is the Circular Mound Altar. It was on this altar, laden with symbolism (much to do with the imperial number 9), that the emperor made the annual sacrifice on the winter solstice.

Blue dragons keep close watch over the annual sacrifice. Temple of Heaven, Beijing, China, Asia. — Blue dragons keep close watch over the annual sacrifice.

Under the Long Corridor. I was surprised that the paint hadn't been touched up like everywhere else at the Temple of Heaven. But it's still very pretty. Temple of Heaven, Beijing, China, Asia. — Under the Long Corridor. I was surprised that the paint hadn’t been touched up like everywhere else at the Temple of Heaven. But it’s still very pretty.

Imperial Ancestral Temple

I spent much more time at the Temple of Heaven than I was expecting. Partly because I had to wait an unusually long time for lunch. Partly because I was walking a lot more slowly now that I was almost crippled. I took the subway back to Tiananmen. I was here to visit one of the nearly hidden areas between Tiananmen and the Forbidden City. Between these 2 icons of Beijing are 2 park-like areas, 1 on the west and 1 on the east. I went through Tiananmen Square security again, just like the day before, and proceeded to the 1 on the east, Working People’s Cultural Palace. The main feature of the Cultural Palace is the Imperial Ancestral Temple.

As I was headed towards the entrance of the Imperial Ancestral, a kind middle-aged approached me. He kept offering to help me get tickets to the Forbidden City. I told him I wasn’t going to the actual Forbidden City but to the smaller area outside the walls. The conversation was circular as he kept asking me about Forbidden City tickets and I kept telling him I wasn’t going to the Forbidden City. He was friendly, but relentless. This showed no sign of stopping, so I started to get annoyed. Finally, he changed the subject. Would I like to see his art exhibit? A-ha! I should have known that there was a scam attempt coming. The art exhibit scam is a common one. They attempt to talk you into buying amateurish artwork and Sotheby’s prices. I firmly told him no, and headed towards the admissions area for the Imperial Ancestral Temple.

When I went to get my ticket, I was surprised to see a sign declaring “ART EXHIBITION” in the same building as the ticket office. So the art scammers actually work out of a government building. Very disappointing. Then I remembered how a fast one got pulled on me with the 10 pictures that were sold to me at the Temple of Heaven. Another enterprise with underhanded practices operating out of a government facility. Seems the government is in on the scam.

So I get my ticket and go through the turnstile. A young woman is waiting for me on the inside. “Would you like to see my art exhibit?” Are you kidding me! Do you really think I’m going to check out your scammy art exhibit after I’ve already entered the paid area? I didn’t ask her that. I just snarled “No!” and carried on with my sightseeing.

The Imperial Ancestral Temple is like a miniature Forbidden City. The Hall for Worship of Ancestors or Sacrificial Hall corresponds to the Hall of Supreme Harmony in the Forbidden City. Beijing, China, Asia. — The Imperial Ancestral Temple is like a miniature Forbidden City. The Hall for Worship of Ancestors or Sacrificial Hall corresponds to the Hall of Supreme Harmony in the Forbidden City.

Yup, there's more of the exquisite detail I can't get enough of. Beijing, China, Asia. — Yup, there’s more of the exquisite detail I can’t get enough of.

There is a museum of imperial items inside the Hall for Worship of Ancestors. Here are a colorful dragon screen and a traditional Chinese carillon (musical instrument of bells). Beijing, China, Asia. — There is a museum of imperial items inside the Hall for Worship of Ancestors. Here are a colorful dragon screen and a traditional Chinese carillon (musical instrument of bells).

The impressive ceiling in the Hall for Worship of Ancestors. Beijing, China, Asia. — The impressive ceiling in the Hall for Worship of Ancestors.

A frozen little guy. Beijing, China, Asia. — A frozen little guy.

The serene moat between the Imperial Ancestral Temple and the Forbidden City. Beijing, China, Asia. — The serene moat between the Imperial Ancestral Temple and the Forbidden City.

The southwest Arrow Tower on the wall that surrounds the Forbidden City. For a guard tower, it's quite elaborate! Forbidden City, Beijing, China, Asia. — The southwest Arrow Tower on the wall that surrounds the Forbidden City. For a guard tower, it’s quite elaborate!

East of the Forbidden City

Outside the eastern gate of the Forbidden City is a lively area with lots of restaurants. (With special tourist prices, I’m sure.) I was taking a look at my guidebook when a middle-aged woman approached me. She was happy to help me find whatever I was looking for. But even more so, she would have loved to go for coffee with me so she could practice English. That’s right, another sure-fire sign of a scam-in-waiting. With this scam, she would have taken me to some unassuming private place and then stuck me with an exorbitant bill. I blew her off quickly.

A few minutes later, I was looking at a map on a wall. (I’m drawn to maps like a moth to a flame.) Another middle-aged woman approached me and gave virtually the same spiel, almost word for work. I was so happy to duck down a quiet side street to continue my walking tour.

The Mahakala Temple, which has been converted to a museum of taxation. (Only in China, right?) It was built during the Ming Dynasty as a palace but became a temple during the Qing Dynasty. It was named for a Tibetan god that was worshiped within. Beijing, China, Asia. — The Mahakala Temple, which has been converted to a museum of taxation. (Only in China, right?) It was built during the Ming Dynasty as a palace but became a temple during the Qing Dynasty. It was named for a Tibetan god that was worshiped within.

A bridge in the small but exceedingly charming Changpu River Park. The small stream is a continuation of the stream that flows in front of Tiananmen. Beijing, China, Asia. — A bridge in the small but exceedingly charming Changpu River Park. The small stream is a continuation of the stream that flows in front of Tiananmen.

I emerged from the quiet side streets and placid park to busy Wangfujing Snack Street, not far from the previous night's Donghuamen Night Market. I sampled some of these dumplings. Beijing, China, Asia. — I emerged from the quiet side streets and placid park to busy Wangfujing Snack Street, not far from the previous night’s Donghuamen Night Market. I sampled some of these dumplings.

Wangfujing Snack Street is very popular and just about as cute as its name. Beijing, China, Asia. — Wangfujing Snack Street is very popular and just about as cute as its name.

Lots and lots of snacks for sale. Beijing, China, Asia. — Lots and lots of snacks for sale.

Unlike the ones at Donghuamen Night Market, these scorpions were alive and wriggling. I feel very bad that I was excited about it. It's quite inhumane. Beijing, China, Asia. — Unlike the ones at Donghuamen Night Market, these scorpions were alive and wriggling. I feel very bad that I was excited about it. It’s quite inhumane.

Ancient Observatory and Ming City Wall Relics

After strolling down Wangfujing Snack Street, I took the subway a little further east to what had been the historic limits of Beijing. The first sight to see was the Ancient Observatory, one of the world’s oldest observatories. It was built atop the wall encircling Beijing in 1442. In 1673, Jesuits built new bronze instruments or revised existing ones to get the observatory up to speed with then current technology.

An equatorial armilla from 1673, used to determine the time and make other celestial measurements. Beijing, China, Asia. — An equatorial armilla from 1673, used to determine the time and make other celestial measurements.

A newer armilla from 1744. Beijing, China, Asia. — A newer armilla from 1744.

This may look strictly like a decorative item, but it's a quadrant. You knew that, right? Don't ask me how, but it's another instrument used for making celestial measurements. Like the first armilla, it was built in 1673. Beijing, China, Asia. — This may look strictly like a decorative item, but it’s a quadrant. You knew that, right? Don’t ask me how, but it’s another instrument used for making celestial measurements. Like the first armilla, it was built in 1673.

Next up, I got a little lost. The Ancient Astronomy is located next to a somewhat confusing intersection. I headed east when I should have headed south. Eventually I figured I was walking longer than I should have been to get to my next stop. I tried asking a police officer for help. She went on and on and on, but I don’t think she really knew what I was asking. I came across another uniformed official. He had no idea what I was asking. While I was engaged with fruitless conversation with him, a few people came along. One of them was a woman who spoke decent English. I showed her where I wanted to go, and she let me know I was way off. Time to backtrack and get to where I was supposed to be going.

The Ancient Observatory is situated atop a small portion of the ancient city wall, built in 1419. Further south (not east!) is the largest still existing section of the wall, just under a mile long. If you do the math, it's just shy of 600 years old. This is one end of the remaining stretch of wall. Beijing, China, Asia. — The Ancient Observatory is situated atop a small portion of the ancient city wall, built in 1419. Further south (not east!) is the largest still existing section of the wall, just under a mile long. If you do the math, it’s just shy of 600 years old. This is one end of the remaining stretch of wall.

The most prominent remaining part of the old wall is the Southeast Corner Watch Tower. At the tower, you're able to climb up to the top of the wall, but I was too tired, cold, and sore at that point. Inside the tower is a popular contemporary art gallery. Beijing, China, Asia. — The most prominent remaining part of the old wall is the Southeast Corner Watch Tower. At the tower, you’re able to climb up to the top of the wall, but I was too tired, cold, and sore at that point. Inside the tower is a popular contemporary art gallery.

According to my itinerary, I was supposed to go from here to an exciting arts district in the northeastern outskirts of Beijing. But the weather was bitterly cold. I was walking with some difficulty due to my fall earlier in the day. Most critically, the district was not easy to get to. It was a long walk from the nearest subway station. And the bus journey to get there seemed confusing. So I made the decision to blow off the arts district. After all, I hadn’t come to Beijing for the art. I called it a day. Of course, I still had a long, frigid, painful walk to the subway to head back to the hotel. And if I accidentally kicked the curb while I was walking, OWW!!! Once again, I was questioning the way I make myself travel. But the pictures are worth it, right? Right!

[Factual information is primarily gathered from Wikipedia, so you know it must be true.]

Comments

Ray says

January 12, 2017 at 7:28 am

Great photos as usual, Billy! I really love your style of writing, especially this line: “I was pondering the un-likelihood that I would be able to sue to Beijing Municipality.” LOL! That got a nice chuckle out of me. The only unfortunate thing here are all the scammers you kept encountering in Beijing. I saw the same thing in Cuba, especially in Havana. Like I get it – you live in a Communist country, so you are trying to make a few extra dollars on the side off foreign tourists. But it really affects your ability to enjoy their city at the same time. C’est la vie I guess!

- Billy says
  
  January 15, 2017 at 5:48 pm
  
  Thanks! I really did think as I was falling how there was likely no way I’d be able to sue Beijing for my fall.
  
  I’m expecting plenty scammers in India, and they’re not even Communist! I’m sure it’s very much a factor of a huge population in a still developing country.