China 2015, Day 9: Tianjin

I will admit right off the bat that Tianjin was not the most exciting place I went on my trip to China. But it’s a major city just a short high-speed train ride from Beijing, so how could I resist spending a day there? Tianjin (formerly known as Tientsin) is not particularly well known, possibly because it’s overshadowed by adjoining Beijing. You may have heard of it in August 2015, 3 months before my trip, when large explosions in the port area killed 173 people. (This was nowhere near the parts of Tianjin I visited.) Nonetheless, it’s an important city to China. It is one of 4 Chinese cities that are not part of any province, similar to how Washington, D.C., or Berlin are not part of any state. Like Washington, these 4 cities are controlled by the national government. The 4 cities are Shanghai, Beijing, Tianjin, and Chongqing (historically part of Sichuan). These 4 cities plus Guangzhou are designated as China’s 5 national central cities, critical to China’s modernization and urbanization.

Jiefang Beilu and Zhongxin Park

Former Kincheng Bank building, 1937. TIanjing, China, Asia. — Former Kincheng Bank building, 1937.

Tianjin is considered the Shanghai of the North. For starters, Tianjin is the largest port of North China. (It is critically important as it is the port for Beijing.) Just as the port of Shanghai was opened to foreigners as a result of the First Opium War, Tianjin’s port was opened up as one of the prices China had to pay for losing the Second Opium War. As in Shanghai, Western powers rushed in and set up shop in Tianjin. Just like Shanghai, Tianjin has a row of early 20th century Western-style buildings reflecting the enormous presence and influence of Westerners up until the WWII. Tianjin’s classical Western strip is Jiefang Beilu (Jiefang Road North). Unfortunately, it isn’t dramatically situated on a riverfront, like the Bund is in Shanghai.

Former Chartered Bank of India, Australia and China building, 1926. Tianjin, China, Asia. — Former Chartered Bank of India, Australia and China building, 1926.

Neoclassical former National City Bank of New York (aka Citibank) building, 1921. Tianjin, China, Asia. — Neoclassical former National City Bank of New York (aka Citibank) building, 1921.

Neoclassical former Hongkong and Shanghai Bank Corporation (HSBC) building, 1925. Tianjin, China, Asia. — Neoclassical former Hongkong and Shanghai Bank Corporation (HSBC) building, 1925.

Former Russo-Chinese Bank building, 1896, built in a Russian style. Tianjin, China, Asia. — Former Russo-Chinese Bank building, 1896, built in a Russian style.

Former Franco-Chinese Industrial and Commercial Bank building, 1933. It actually looks sorta French. Tianjin, China, Asia. — Former Franco-Chinese Industrial and Commercial Bank building, 1933. It actually looks sorta French.

Tianjin Custom Letter House, 1878. It later became the Tianjin Branch of Post Office of the Qing Dynasty. China's first national stamps, the "Dragon Stamps" were issued here. Tianjin, China, Asia. — Tianjin Custom Letter House, 1878. It later became the Tianjin Branch of Post Office of the Qing Dynasty. China’s first national stamps, the “Dragon Stamps” were issued here.

After walking up Jiefang Beilu, I turned left onto lovely Chengde Road, where I was greeted by a row of inspiring Socialist sculptures. Tianjin, China, Asia. — After walking up Jiefang Beilu, I turned left onto lovely Chengde Road, where I was greeted by a row of inspiring Socialist sculptures.

More socialist inspiration. Tianjin, China, Asia. — More socialist inspiration.

Well, here's some Tianjin modernity for a change! On the left, Tianjin World Financial Center. On the right, Financial Street Heping Center, yet another building that reminds me of an Asian Empire State Building. Tianjing, China, Asia. — Well, here’s some Tianjin modernity for a change! On the left, Tianjin World Financial Center. On the right, Financial Street Heping Center, yet another building that reminds me of an Asian Empire State Building.

Chengde Road becomes a circle around Zhongxin Park. Here is a memorialized hero in the park. Tianjin, China, Park. — Chengde Road becomes a circle around Zhongxin Park. Here is a memorialized hero in the park.

This Zhongxin Park resident is one smooth dude. Tianjin, China, Asia. — This Zhongxin Park resident is one smooth dude.

Central Tianjin

After Zhongxin Park, I took a long walk through central Tianjin to get to the old Chinese part of town. (As in Shanghai, Chinese citizens were restricted to a part of town apart from where the Westerners set up their concessions.) The walk was much longer than I expected. And I still felt a lot of back pain if I twisted the wrong way, accidentally kicked the curb, or bent over to tie my shoes if my shoes became untied (which happened constantly). And the weather was still frigid. It was a LOOOONG walk. I swore I would never schedule long walks again on my trips. We’ll see how that turns out.

This sculpture seems to recall Tianjin's colonial past. I was surprised that I couldn't find an identifying plaque because just about all other public sculptures had them. Tianjin, China, Asia. — This sculpture seems to recall Tianjin’s colonial past. I was surprised that I couldn’t find an identifying plaque because just about all other public sculptures had them.

The St. Regis Tianjin reminds me a whole lot of La Grande Arche de la Défense in Paris. Tianjin, China, Asia. — The St. Regis Tianjin reminds me a whole lot of La Grande Arche de la Défense in Paris.

Tianjin: More than meets the eye. Tianjin, China, Asia. — Tianjin: More than meets the eye.

Tianjin Ancient Culture Street

The culture may be ancient, but the street isn’t. Tianjin Ancient Culture Street is a tourist attraction built in the ’80s.

An adorable sculpture at Ancient Culture Street. Tianjin, China, Asia. — An adorable sculpture at Ancient Culture Street.

Bargain hunting on Ancient Culture Street. Tianjin, China, Asia. — Bargain hunting on Ancient Culture Street.

Not-so-ancient shops on Ancient Culture Street. Tianjin, China, Asia. — Not-so-ancient shops on Ancient Culture Street.

Even statues get hungry. Tianjin, China, Asia. — Even statues get hungry.

An attraction within Ancient Culture Street is genuinely ancient. Tianhou Palace is a Taoist temple built to honor Tianhou, Goddess of the Sea. It was originally built in 1326, during the Yuan Dynasty of the Mongols. Tianjin, China, Asia. — An attraction within Ancient Culture Street is genuinely ancient. Tianhou Palace is a Taoist temple built to honor Tianhou, Goddess of the Sea. It was originally built in 1326, during the Yuan Dynasty of the Mongols.

The old temple bell. Tianjin, China, Asia. — The old temple bell.

I got in trouble for taking this picture. But I got the picture! Tianjin, China, Asia. — I got in trouble for taking this picture. But I got the picture!

Confucius Temple

Old Town

The Tianjin Old City is the heart of Chinese heritage in Tianjin.

The main attraction in the Old Town is the Drum Tower. Originally built during the Ming Dynasty, it was rebuilt after being destroyed during the Cultural Revolution. Tianjin, China, Asia. — The main attraction in the Old Town is the Drum Tower. Originally built during the Ming Dynasty, it was rebuilt after being destroyed during the Cultural Revolution.

From Old Town to new town. A huge apartment block. Tianjin, China, Asia. — From Old Town to new town. A huge apartment block.

Absolutely stunning architectural detail in the Old Town. Tianjin, China, Asia. — Absolutely stunning architectural detail in the Old Town.

The Old Town's northern gate. Tianjin, China, Asia. — The Old Town’s northern gate.

Hai River

Nearing the end of a long day, I crossed over to the north side of the Hai River to see a few sights and grab dinner in the Hebei (literally, “north of the river”) district.

Bet you weren't expecting this! The Tianjin Eye bills itself as the only Ferris wheel situated on a bridge. Tianjin, China, Asia. — Bet you weren’t expecting this! The Tianjin Eye bills itself as the only Ferris wheel situated on a bridge.

This was the prettiest view I had all day, featuring the lovely Jingang Bridge. Tianjin, China, Asia. — This was the prettiest view I had all day, featuring the lovely Jingang Bridge.

Temple of Great Compassion

The Temple of Great Compassion is a very large Buddhist temple complex originating in 1669.

In the Sakya Hall. Tianjin, China, Asia. — In the Sakya Hall.

More of that beautiful detail I can't get enough of. Tianjin, China, Asia. — More of that beautiful detail I can’t get enough of.

A tall brazier reminiscent of the one at Jing'an Temple in Shanghai. Tianjin, China, Asia. — A tall brazier reminiscent of the one at Jing’an Temple in Shanghai.

The Grand Hall at the Temple of Great Compassion. (Pardon the ongoing construction.) Tianjin, China, Asia. — The Grand Hall at the Temple of Great Compassion. (Pardon the ongoing construction.)

This dragon fish really reminds me of the Sacred Cod hanging in the Massachusetts State House. Tianjin, China, Asia. — This dragon fish really reminds me of the Sacred Cod hanging in the Massachusetts State House.

Hebei

It was time for another long walk. I had to get from the Temple of Great Compassion to the most exciting (and unlikely) attraction of the day. I tried not to get lost by walking parallel to the Hai River.

The Gothic Wanghailou Church was originally built by the French in 1869 as Notre Dame des Victoires (Our Lady of Victories). It was destroyed and rebuilt twice. Both incidents of destruction took place during periods of anti-foreigner sentiment, including the Boxer Rebellion. Tianjin, China, Asia. — The Gothic Wanghailou Church was originally built by the French in 1869 as Notre Dame des Victoires (Our Lady of Victories). It was destroyed and rebuilt twice. Both incidents of destruction took place during periods of anti-foreigner sentiment, including the Boxer Rebellion.

I took this picture while strolling along the Seine in Paris. Well, no, but it looks like it, and with good reason. Built in the '70s, the Bei'an Bridge is a replica of Paris's Pont Alexander III. Just because. Tianjin, China, Asia. — I took this picture while strolling along the Seine in Paris. Well, no, but it looks like it, and with good reason. Built in the ’70s, the Bei’an Bridge is a replica of Paris’s Pont Alexander III. Just because.

Italian Style Town

While Tianjin was the Shanghai of the North, Tianjin had something even Shanghai didn’t have: Italians! Along with the principal Western powers and Japan, Italy decided to set up shop in Tianjin. They built Italian villas to make themselves feel at home. The area of the former Italian concession is now a Europe-themed tourist area named Italian Style Town. (The Chinese don’t get very imaginative when naming tourist spots. See: Ancient Culture Street.)

Italian Style Town is centered on Marco Polo Square. Naturally. In the center of the square (which is actually a circle) is the Italian WWI monument. Tianjin, China, Asia. — Italian Style Town is centered on Marco Polo Square. Naturally. In the center of the square (which is actually a circle) is the Italian WWI monument.

Arrivederci Tianjin

By the end of the day, I had come full circle. I began and ended the day in areas with Western architectural styles resulting from Western domination of Tianjin prior to WWII. After dinner in Italian Style Town (read all about it in the Food Diary!), I headed back to the train station, which was located very close to Italian Style Town. So I really had come full circle for the day. A long, cold, frequently pain-filled circle. While waiting for the train back to Beijing in the typically cavernous station, I dropped my train ticket. I struggled trying to bend down to pick it up thanks to my back injury. A middle-aged woman approached me, wagging her finger at me. She was not going to let me continue to struggle. She bent down to pick up the ticket and then handed it to me. Those Chinese, they’re pretty great!

Until reliving the whole day just now, I had forgotten what a full day it really was. You can believe that I passed out on the train as soon as it left the station. I was quite startled when we pulled into Beijing. I was certain that we were making an unexpected stop somewhere along they way. It just seemed like the trip was too fast. But we really were in Beijing. That’s how things go when you’re utterly exhausted.

[Factual information is primarily gathered from Wikipedia, so you know it must be true.]