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China 2015, Day 10: Beijing, Day 4

Western and Northern Beijing

After a day in Tianjin, I was on the homestretch of my trip with 2 final days in Beijing.  On these 2 days, the weather warmed up enough that I felt comfortable unzipping my jacket and leaving off the hat and gloves for the first time since I had arrived in Beijing.  The deep freeze was over, but I noticed there was a yucky fog.  (“Yucky” is a meteorological term.)  After a while, I realized that it wasn’t just fog, and it was Beijing’s notorious smog.  And it wasn’t just smog, it was the smog that led to led to Beijing’s first ever “red alert” for pollution.  (You probably heard about it on the news.)  What a delight to be in town when history was being made!  Life-threatening smog notwithstanding, I had a very full day on Day 10.

Niujie Mosque

The "Cow Street" Mosque looks more like a Buddhist temple than any mosque I had seen. Beijing, China, Asia.
The “Cow Street” Mosque looks more like a Buddhist temple than any mosque I had seen.

The Niujie Mosque, also known as the Cow Street Mosque, is Beijing’s oldest and largest mosque.  (“Niujie” translates as “Cow Street”.)  I thought it would be fascinating to see a major mosque in China.  Honestly, the most fascinating aspect of the Niujie Mosque is how it looks much more like a Chinese temple than any mosque I had seen in Southeast or Southwest Asia.  The mosque is located in Beijing’s most predominantly Muslim neighborhood.  Thousands of Hui people live there.  Generally speaking, Hui are Muslim and are ethnically similar to Han Chinese.  They are China’s second largest ethnic minority at about 0.8% of the population.  On my way to and from the mosque (on a Saturday morning), I passed by many packed halal restaurants.

The Mosque Stele, inscribed in 1613. Beijing, China, Asia.
The Mosque Stele, inscribed in 1613.

Niujie Mosque was originally built in 996.  After being destroyed by the Mongols in 1215, it was reconstructed in 1443 during the Ming Dynasty.

The Worship Hall. Only Muslims may enter. (Plastic strips keep out the cold.) Beijing, China, Asia.
The Worship Hall. Only Muslims may enter. (Plastic strips keep out the cold.)
This is not your mullah's minaret. Yes, this actually is the Niujie Mosque's minaret. Beijing, China, Asia.
This is not your mullah’s minaret. Yes, this actually is the Niujie Mosque’s minaret.
The tombs of two Arab sheikh missionaries who died in the 1280s. Beijing, China, Asia.
The tombs of two Arab sheikh missionaries who died in the 1280s.
Wangyuelou (moon observation tower), used for astronomical observation and calculations. Beijing, China, Asia.
Wangyuelou (moon observation tower), used for astronomical observation and calculations.

Jingshan Park

After touring the particularly Chinese Niujie Mosque, I took a bus up through wesetern Beijing to Jingshan Park.  I got off the bus at the northern (exit) gate of the Forbidden City, where I had gotten on a bus 4 days earlier.  Jingshan Park is directly across the street from the Forbidden City.  (Being a public park in China, naturally there was an admission fee.)  I had planned to visit Jingshan Park for one reason:  to get the spectacular view of the Forbidden City from the Wanchun Pavilion at the top of Jingshan (Prospect Hill).  But then there was the matter of Red Alert smog.  I had gotten a nice view of Wanchun Pavilion from the Forbidden City on Day 6.  But reciprocation was not in the cards for me.

The Chinese love to blast loud music in their parks while they work out. Beijing, China, Asia.
The Chinese love to blast loud music in their parks while they work out.
The not very clear view of Wanchun Pavilion atop Prospect Hill (Jingshan). Beijing, China, Asia.
The not very clear view of Wanchun Pavilion atop Prospect Hill (Jingshan).
I'm not quite sure why the peak of Prospect Hill is considered to be the center of Beijing. You would think it would be the Forbidden City or Tiananmen Square. They all lie on Beijing's north-south axis. Beijing, China, Asia.
I’m not quite sure why the peak of Prospect Hill is considered to be the center of Beijing. You would think it would be the Forbidden City or Tiananmen Square. They all lie on Beijing’s north-south axis.

 

The extremely disappointing smoggy view of the Forbidden City from the Wanghun (All Time Spring) Pavilion. Talk about a letdown! Forbidden City, Beijing, China, Asia.
The extremely disappointing smoggy view of the Forbidden City from the Wanghun (All Time Spring) Pavilion. Talk about a letdown!
Another smoggy view. This time to the west. The White Dagoba that crowns Beihai Park can barely be seen. Beijing, China, Asia.
Another smoggy view. This time to the west. The White Dagoba that crowns Beihai Park can barely be seen.
The fruit of the kaki tree (also known as Chinese persimmon) look nice and bright against the gloomy smoggy sky. Beijing, China, Asia.
The fruit of the kaki tree (also known as Chinese persimmon) look nice and bright against the gloomy smoggy sky.

Beihai Park

From Jingshan Park, it was due west to another park, the beautiful Beihai Park.  Beihai Park is named for the Northern Sea (Beihai), the northernmost of 3 adjoining lakes.  Middle Sea and Southern Sea are off-limits because they are on the grounds of Communist Party of China HQ.

I thought that Beihai Park was directly across the street from Jingshan Park. But I had to walk through this large, lively market to get there. Beijing, China, Asia.
I thought that Beihai Park was directly across the street from Jingshan Park. But I had to walk through this large, lively market to get there.
The eastern bridge from the mainland to Qiongdao (Jade) Island. Beijing, China, Asia.
The eastern bridge from the mainland to Qiongdao (Jade) Island.
The southern bridge to Qiongdao Island. The 130-foot-tall White Dagoba is a Tibetan-style stupa originally built in 1651 to honor the visit of the 5th Dalai Lama from Tibet. It was rebuilt in 1680 after being destroyed in an earthquake. I was behind schedule (mostly because I allowed myself to sleep late), so I didn't make it up the hill to check it out. Beijing, China, Asia.
The southern bridge to Qiongdao Island. The 130-foot-tall White Dagoba is a Tibetan-style stupa originally built in 1651 to honor the visit of the 5th Dalai Lama from Tibet. It was rebuilt in 1680 after being destroyed in an earthquake. I was behind schedule (mostly because I allowed myself to sleep late), so I didn’t make it up the hill to check it out.
More loud music playing in a Chinese "public" park (with an admission fee). This time, couples were doing the waltz to a Chinese version of "Scarborough Fair". Far back, in the center, a pink-haired illusionist danced with a little girl. Beijing, China, Asia.
More loud music playing in a Chinese “public” park (with an admission fee). This time, couples were doing the waltz to a Chinese version of “Scarborough Fair”. Far back, in the center, a pink-haired illusionist danced with a little girl.
Beihai Park's magnificent Nine-Dragon Wall. Unlike the one in the Forbidden City, this one has dragons on both sides. Does that make it an Eighteen-Dragon Wall? Beijing, China, Asia.
Beihai Park’s magnificent Nine-Dragon Wall. Unlike the one in the Forbidden City, this one has dragons on both sides. Does that make it an Eighteen-Dragon Wall?

Houhai

North of Beihai, there are yet 3 more lakes.  The largest of the 3 is Houhai (Rear Lake).  The scenic area around the 3 northern lakes is also referred to as Houhai.

Entrance to Mei Lanfang Memorial Hall, a museum honoring the opera legend in his former home. Mei Lanfang became a great star playing "dan", female leading roles. Beijing, China, Asia.
Entrance to Mei Lanfang Memorial Hall, a museum honoring the opera legend in his former home. Mei Lanfang became a great star playing “dan”, female leading roles.
The former Fu Jen Catholic University, founded in 1925 as the Catholic University of Peking. In 1952, the Communists merged the university with several secular universities in a crackdown on religious institutions. Beijing, China, Asia.
The former Fu Jen Catholic University, founded in 1925 as the Catholic University of Peking. In 1952, the Communists merged the university with several secular universities in a crackdown on religious institutions.
A cute street scene! Beijing, China, Asia.
A cute street scene!
The Chinese really do willows right! Beijing, China, Asia.
The Chinese really do willows right!
A sweet socialist scene. Beijing, Chinese, Asia.
A sweet socialist scene.
Semi-frozen Houhai. Beijing, China, Asia.
Semi-frozen Houhai.
Houhai shores. Beijing, China, Asia.
Houhai shores.
Pretty little Silver Ingot Bridge crosses the channel that connects Houhai with Qianhai (Front Lake). Beijing, China, Asia.
Pretty little Silver Ingot Bridge crosses the channel that connects Houhai with Qianhai (Front Lake).
Shopping area around Silver Ingot Bridge. Barely visible in the smoggy distance is the Bell Tower. Beijing, China, Asia.
Shopping area around Silver Ingot Bridge. Barely visible in the smoggy distance is the Bell Tower.
Shops and restaurants along the shore. Beijing, China, Asia.
Shops and restaurants along the shore.
The mighty Drum Tower. The original Drum Tower was built in 1272 by the Yuan Dynasty at the center of what was their capital. It was rebuilt by the Ming Dynasty in 1420 east of the original location. Beijing, China, Asia.
The mighty Drum Tower. The original Drum Tower was built in 1272 by the Yuan Dynasty at the center of what was their capital. It was rebuilt by the Ming Dynasty in 1420 east of the original location.
Directly north of the Drum Tower is the Bell Tower. Both lie on Beijing's north-south axis. The current Bell Tower was built in 1745 to replace an earlier one that was destroyed by fire. In the Bell Tower hangs a 42-ton bronze bell cast in 1420. When rung, it could be heard for 3 miles around. Beijing, China, Asia.
Directly north of the Drum Tower is the Bell Tower. Both lie on Beijing’s north-south axis. The current Bell Tower was built in 1745 to replace an earlier one that was destroyed by fire. In the Bell Tower hangs a 42-ton bronze bell cast in 1420. When rung, it could be heard for 3 miles around.

Lama Temple

The Lama Temple is a very large Tibetan Buddhist temple complex originally built as an official residence in the 17th century. It was converted into a monastery in 1744. Beijing, China, Asia.
The Lama Temple is a very large Tibetan Buddhist temple complex originally built as an official residence in the 17th century. It was converted into a monastery in 1744.
Golden Buddha with blue hair. Beijing, China, Asia.
Golden Buddha with blue hair.
55-foot statue of Maitreya (Future Buddha) carved out of a single piece of sandalwood. No pictures allowed! But everyone was taking pictures, so I did too. Beijing, China, Asia.
55-foot statue of Maitreya (Future Buddha) carved out of a single piece of sandalwood. No pictures allowed! But everyone was taking pictures, so I did too.
Wanfu Hall (The Pavilion of Ten Thousand Happinesses). It makes me happy! Beijing, China, Asia.
Wanfu Hall (The Pavilion of Ten Thousand Happinesses). It makes me happy!

Confucius Temple

The Confucius Temple is a very large Confucian temple complex.  As a matter of fact, it’s the largest Confucian temple in China other than the one in Confucius’s hometown, Qufu.  It was originally built in 1302.  Unfortunately, I didn’t get to see it.  I ran behind schedule all day–partly because I allowed myself to sleep late near the end of my exhausting trip, partly because there was just so much to see throughout the day.  So by the time I got to Confucius Temple, it was closed.  Oh well!

The pretty tree-lined street leading up to Confucius Temple. At least I got to see that! Beijing, China, Asia.
The pretty tree-lined street leading up to Confucius Temple. At least I got to see that!
Along the tree-lined street, old men playing Chinese chess under the trees. Oh, if only they had been playing Chinese checkers, in the rain. (If you still don't get it, look it up.) Beijing, Chinese, Asia.
Along the tree-lined street, old men playing Chinese chess under the trees. Oh, if only they had been playing Chinese checkers, in the rain. (If you still don’t get it, look it up.)

Dinner!

Day 10 was bookended with Chinese Muslim culture.  I started off the day with a visit to the Niujie Mosque, situated in a Hui neighborhood.  For dinner, I went to a Uyghur (pronounced “Wee-ger” with a hard “g”) Muslim restaurant.  Uyghurs are primarily Muslim and are ethnically related to Turks.  Their homeland is the autonomous region Xinjiang in northwestern China.  At about 0.75% of the population, they are China’s 4th largest minority group.

The restaurant was down a long, dark alley.  A few blocks down the alley, actually.  Although the day had been the warmest day in Beijing so far, it got pretty cold again once nightfall came.  I was so happy to finally arrive at the “rsterant”, I took a picture!

I was so happy when I finally came upon the restaurant, which was a few blocks down a long, dark alley. You will of course be able to read all about dinner in the Food Diary. Beijing, China, Asia.
I was so happy when I finally came upon the restaurant, which was a few blocks down a long, dark alley. You will of course be able to read all about dinner in the Food Diary.

[Factual information is primarily gathered from Wikipedia, so you know it must be true.]

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Comments

  1. Mark Olmsted says

    I like that I feel like I don;t have to visit Beijing now. Armchair tourism is so much less expensive. (I would like to go to Tokyo with you, though, and all of Japan). Bogo and a wonderful time there. I particularly love that Mosque!

    Reply

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