Summer Palace (and a Night at the Peking Opera!)

I feel like my trip to China ended on a fantastic high. This was due to 3 reasons: the Summer Palace, the Peking Opera, and the dinner I had between the two. You’ll have to wait for the Food Diary to read about the dinner. The rest is below. [I have a lot of pictures from the Summer Palace because it was such a gorgeous site to tour. Please don’t skip the part about the opera at the end. It was by far one of the highlights of my trip, and there’s a video included that I really hope you watch!]

Summer Palace

The Summer Palace is a large complex featuring numerous imperial palace buildings, beautiful landscaping, and a large lake system. Much of the landscaping, especially the lakes, was based on West Lake in Hangzhou. I was deliriously happy touring the grounds of the Summer Palace because I felt that it made up for the rainy miserableness that I had experienced at West Lake.

A bronze qilin greets you at the Summer Palace. He's a dragon-lion-ox-deer-fish combo. We previously saw a Qilin outside a historic drugstore in central Beijing. This qilin has been chillin' in place since the 18th century. Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — A bronze qilin greets you at the Summer Palace. He’s a dragon-lion-ox-deer-fish combo. We previously saw a Qilin outside a historic drugstore in central Beijing. This qilin has been chillin’ in place since the 18th century.

The Summer Palace was originally completed in 1764. It was largely destroyed, along with the nearby Old Summer Palace, by the vengeful English and French in 1860 during the Second Opium War. Reconstruction was completed in 1895. The Summer Palace suffered significant damage again in 1900. This time it was at the hands of the 8 nations allied against China in the Boxer Rebellion. Restoration work was done in 1902. Both sets of repairs were overseen by the infamous Empress Dowager Cixi, the individual most closely associated with the Summer Palace today.

Looking across the lake from the eastern court area to Longevity Hill and the Tower of Buddhist Incense. Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — Looking across the lake from the eastern court area to Longevity Hill and the Tower of Buddhist Incense.

Empress Dowager Cixi was possibly one of the most powerful women in history. I thought I hadn’t heard of her before planning this trip, but she has a small but important role at the beginning of “The Last Emperor”. On her deathbed, she named 2-year-old Puyi emperor after the death of the previous emperor. Up to her death in 1908, she was effectively the ruler of China for 47 years as the power behind the throne, or “behind the curtain”, as the expression went. She is sort of the Yoko Ono of the Qing Dynasty as, fairly or not, she is largely given the blame for the end of the dynasty and the Chinese imperial system.

Imperial jewelry in a museum within the Summer Palace. (Separate admission required.) Beijing, China, Asia. — Imperial jewelry in a museum within the Summer Palace. (Separate admission required.)

Shimmering imperial robe. Summer Palace, Beijing, China. — Shimmering imperial robe.

After China’s initial military losses in the 19th century, Cixi resisted reforms to Chinese society because she was part of the conservative Manchu ruling class. She spent lavishly to reconstruct the Summer Palace, using funds that had been designated to modernize the Chinese navy. Later, she aligned with the Boxers, drawing the wrath of the 8 nations that allied against China in the Boxer Rebellion. After China’s defeat in the Boxer Rebellion, Cixi finally realized that reforms and modernization were necessary. But it was too little, too late. The Chinese imperial system died just a few years after she did.

The beautiful Make-up Building, originally built in 1891. It was the backstage area for the Great Stage, to which it is connected. Cixi loved opera and had elaborate theaters built here and in the Forbidden City. Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — The beautiful Make-up Building, originally built in 1891. It was the backstage area for the Great Stage, to which it is connected. Cixi loved opera and had elaborate theaters built here and in the Forbidden City.

Adorning the Great Stage, the golden yellow dragons with five claws. An absolute sign of the emperor. (And for a long time, the dowager empress too.) Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — Adorning the Great Stage, the golden yellow dragons with five claws. An absolute sign of the emperor. (And for a long time, the dowager empress too.)

The Great Stage. originally built in 1891, is the largest existing imperial stage in China. It is equipped with wells for water effects and pulleys and frames for other motion effects. Summer Palace, China, Asia. — The Great Stage. originally built in 1891, is the largest existing imperial stage in China. It is equipped with wells for water effects and pulleys and frames for other motion effects.

A rockery in front of the Hall of Celebrating Virtues. Cixi rested here during performance intermissions. The theater complex is within the Garden of Virtue and Harmony. (Separate admission required.) Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — A rockery in front of the Hall of Celebrating Virtues. Cixi rested here during performance intermissions. The theater complex is within the Garden of Virtue and Harmony. (Separate admission required.)

The Blue Iris Stone is the largest stone decoration in any Chinese garden. Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — The Blue Iris Stone is the largest stone decoration in any Chinese garden.

Smoggy view across the lake to Nanhu (South Lake) Island. Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — Smoggy view across the lake to Nanhu (South Lake) Island.

More of the intricate decoration that I love. This time, it's landscapes painted on the beams of the Long Corridor. The Long Corridor connects the eastern court area with Longevity Hill and is almost 1/2 mile long. There are more than 14,000 of these paintings. Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — More of the intricate decoration that I love. This time, it’s landscapes painted on the beams of the Long Corridor. The Long Corridor connects the eastern court area with Longevity Hill and is almost 1/2 mile long. There are more than 14,000 of these paintings.

The Hall of Dispelling Clouds at the lakefront foot of Longevity Hill. (Too bad it doesn't work on dispelling smog.) The Tower of Buddhist Incense peaks out from above. Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — The Gate of Dispelling Clouds at the lakefront foot of Longevity Hill. (Too bad it doesn’t work on dispelling smog.) The Tower of Buddhist Incense peaks out from above.

The Hall of Dispelling Clouds was one of Cixi's favorite hangouts at the Summer Palace. The Tower of Buddhist Incense towers, appropriately, above. Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — The Hall of Dispelling Clouds was one of Cixi’s favorite hangouts at the Summer Palace. The Tower of Buddhist Incense towers, appropriately, above.

A cute little critter at the Hall of Dispelling Clouds. Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — A cute little critter at the Hall of Dispelling Clouds.

Cixi's throne room in the Hall of Dispelling Clouds. Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — Cixi’s throne room in the Hall of Dispelling Clouds.

A rocky construction on Longevity Hill. Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — A rocky construction on Longevity Hill.

Zhuanlunzang (Prayer Wheel) Pavilion, used to store Buddhist documents. Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — Zhuanlunzang (Prayer Wheel) Pavilion, used to store Buddhist documents.

Looking south from Longevity Hill. Can you see the lake through the smog? Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — Looking south from Longevity Hill. Can you see the lake through the smog?

Behind the Tower of Buddhist Incense and atop Longevity Hill is the pretty Temple of the Sea of Wisdom. Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — Behind the Tower of Buddhist Incense and atop Longevity Hill is the pretty Temple of the Sea of Wisdom.

Full-length view of the Tower of Buddhist Incense. Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — Full-length view of the Tower of Buddhist Incense.

Another view of the very colorful Temple of the Sea of Wisdom. Because it's made of stone, rather than wood, it survived when most of the Summer Palace was destroyed by euro-arson during the Second Opium War. Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — Another view of the very colorful Temple of the Sea of Wisdom. Because it’s made of stone, rather than wood, it survived when most of the Summer Palace was destroyed by euro-arson during the Second Opium War.

The Temple of the Sea of Wisdom is covered with over 1,000 of these glazed Buddhas. Damage incurred during the Second Opium War, the Boxer Rebellion, and the Cultural Revolution is evident. Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — The Temple of the Sea of Wisdom is covered with over 1,000 of these glazed Buddhas. Damage incurred during the Second Opium War, the Boxer Rebellion, and the Cultural Revolution is evident.

Inside the Temple of the Sea of Wisdom, the Amitābha Buddha (the Buddha of Infinite Light). (I hope I got that right.) The statue was severely damaged during a century of war and revolution. Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — Inside the Temple of the Sea of Wisdom, the Amitābha Buddha (the Buddha of Infinite Light). (I hope I got that right.) The statue was severely damaged during a century of war and revolution.

Perhaps Cixi's greatest extravagance, the Marble Boat. The original wooden superstructure was destroyed by fire during the Second Opium War. Cixi had it rebuilt using money embezzled from the navy. To make up for it, the navy was given command of the boat. This was, of course, useless to the navy because the Marble Boat is made of stone and fixed to the bottom of the lake. Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — Perhaps Cixi’s greatest extravagance, the Marble Boat. The original wooden superstructure was destroyed by fire during the Second Opium War. Cixi had it rebuilt using money embezzled from the navy. To make up for it, the navy was given command of the boat. This was, of course, useless to the navy because the Marble Boat is made of stone and fixed to the bottom of the lake.

Near the Marble Boat, a group of middle-aged, blue-collar men decided they wanted pictures taken with me. Unlike at the Great Wall, when I was still smarting over the total prices of my photos at the Temple of Heaven, I happily obliged. They were thrilled, giving the thumbs up while posing with me. I really should have given them my camera so I could have gotten a fun group photo for myself. But I didn’t.

If you think this bridge is pretty, you should see the bridge I took the picture from. Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — If you think this bridge is pretty, you should see the bridge I took the picture from.

And here it is! (I took this picture from the previous bridge.) Gorgeous, isn't it! Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — And here it is! (I took this picture from the previous bridge.) Gorgeous, isn’t it!

The landscaping around the Summer Palace is just stunning. Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — The landscaping around the Summer Palace is just stunning.

Pretty view of Longevity Hill (dominated by the Tower of Buddhist Incense) and the Marble Boat from the western shore of the lake. Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — Pretty view of Longevity Hill (dominated by the Tower of Buddhist Incense) and the Marble Boat from the western shore of the lake.

I felt that while the sun was setting on the Summer Palace, it was also setting on my trip. It was also around this point I realized that the beautiful scenery of the Summer Palace made up for my not being able to enjoy West Lake. Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — I felt that while the sun was setting on the Summer Palace, it was also setting on my trip. It was also around this point I realized that the beautiful scenery of the Summer Palace made up for my not being able to enjoy West Lake.

There is no shortage of beautiful bridges at the Summer Palace. Here is the Jade Belt Bridge. Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — There is no shortage of beautiful bridges at the Summer Palace. Here is the Jade Belt Bridge.

I loved getting this pretty shot. Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — I loved getting this pretty shot.

The Mirror Bridge, named after a line in an 8th-century poem. Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — The Mirror Bridge, named after a line in an 8th-century poem.

Just another pretty view on the walk around the lake. Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — Just another pretty view on the walk around the lake.

View of South Lake Island and the Nineteen-Arch Bridge from the southern shore of the lake. Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — View of South Lake Island and the Nineteen-Arch Bridge from the southern shore of the lake.

Weird ice patterns in the frozen lake. Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — Weird ice patterns in the frozen lake.

I ran out of time, so I didn't get to cross the Seventeen-Arch Bridge and investigate South Lake Island. There were other areas I also had to skip. The Summer Palace complex is just so huge. Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — I ran out of time, so I didn’t get to cross the Seventeen-Arch Bridge and investigate South Lake Island. There were other areas I also had to skip. The Summer Palace complex is just so huge.

Another wintry tree at the Summer Palace. Beijing, China, Asia. — Another wintry tree at the Summer Palace.

The waterway connecting the Summer Palace to Beijing's canal system and ultimately to the Grand Canal and the sea. Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — The waterway connecting the Summer Palace to Beijing’s canal system and ultimately to the Grand Canal and the sea.

I'll cross the Seventeen-Arch Bridge over to South Lake Island on my next trip to Beijing. Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — I’ll cross the Seventeen-Arch Bridge over to South Lake Island on my next trip to Beijing.

The bronze ox on the eastern shore of the lake is from 1755. The inscription explains that the ox was placed on the shore to prevent flooding. Oxen, as you know, possess mystical powers of flood control. Summer Palace, Beijing, China, Asia. — The bronze ox on the eastern shore of the lake is from 1755. The inscription explains that the ox was placed on the shore to prevent flooding. Oxen, as you know, possess mystical powers of flood control.

Well it was after dark and already after hours at the Summer Palace, so I wasn’t able to make it all the way around the lake. I left at the nearest gate, rather than where I had entered hours earlier. I had a general idea where the subway was. But now on the last day of my trip, I was confidently able to ask policemen I encountered, “DJ?” I hope you’ll agree that my sightseeing in China ended spectacularly at the Summer Palace. But I had one more attraction on my itinerary.

Peking Opera

I usually don’t take in any sort of entertainment or shows on my trips. But this trip had 2 of them. First, the amazing acrobat show in Shanghai. And finally, to wrap up my trip, the Peking Opera.

I was so glad I watched “Farewell My Concubine” prior to my trip. It’s a fantastic Chinese movie that tells the story of opera stars in Beijing and how they are impacted by the cataclysmic events of the 20th century in China. The movie climaxes with the persecution of performers of traditional arts (such as opera) during the Cultural Revolution. You’ve really got to see it. (It’s available on On Demand.) Watching the movie helped prepare me for the strange spectacle that is Peking Opera.

The interior of the Zhengyici Theatre. The Zhengyici Theatre was built in 1688 on the site of a Ming-era Buddhist temple. It was abandoned during the Cultural Revolution and restored in 1995. Beijing, China, Asia. — The interior of the Zhengyici Theatre. The Zhengyici Theatre was built in 1688 on the site of a Ming-era Buddhist temple. It was abandoned during the Cultural Revolution and restored in 1995.

In a recurring theme from dinner the night before, the theater was down a dark (if not long) alley. I couldn’t find the theater, so I returned to the start of the alley, where there was an area map. A policeman saw me trying to figure things out. He approached me and started speaking Chinese. I pointed to the theater on the map. He started again with the Chinese, but he also made some hand gestures. I figured out that he was offering to walk me to the theater. He accompanied me down the alley and kept up his Mandarin. Finally I told him, “Wo bu mingbai.” (In English, “I don’t understand.” Along with “please” and “thank you”, it’s an important phrase to learn whenever you’re traveling in a non-anglophone country.) Right away, he stopped talking but kept on walking, right up to the theater. I thanked him very much. “Xie xie ni!” I love the Chinese people!

The theater was beautiful and very small. I had a seat on the side. It was a cheaper seat, and I couldn’t see the titles projected on the wall next to the stage in Chinese and English. It didn’t matter. I was on the edge of my seat with my jaw grazing the floor throughout the entire astonishing show. Acrobatic-style precision dancing. Fabulous costumes. Weird singing. Ancient instruments. I really felt like I had been given the extraordinary privilege of being admitted into a secret world that few Westerners had seen. Any plot was almost beside the point.

The stage at the Zhengyici Theatre. Beijing, China, Opera. — The stage at the Zhengyici Theatre.

And really, the plot almost really was beside the point. The show wasn’t one actual opera. The name of the show is “Mei Lanfang Classics”. It is comprised of 6 scenes from different operas. (One of the scenes was from “Farewell My Concubine”, the classic opera that the movie is named after and is featured prominently in the movie.) Each of the scenes was a classic performance in the repertoire of Mei Lanfang, the female-role playing opera legend whose house we saw the previous day. Mei performed at the Zhengyici Theatre throughout his career. I didn’t realize till the curtain call at end of the show that each scene starred a different actor in the Mei Lanfang role.

Many people were taking pictures during the performance, but I couldn’t bring myself to do that despite the temptation. So instead, PLEASE watch this video. It is somewhat of a trailer for the show, and it will give you a taste of the captivating spectacle that I was privileged to behold. Just watching the video has me on the edge of my seat again.

So 9 months ago, my trip ended. And now I get a little misty-eyed as my reliving it with you also comes to an end. (Especially after watching the video.) My trip to China was an amazing adventure. I hope to some degree you were able to see why. (But don’t forget! Above I said there were 3 reasons that my trip ended on an amazing high. You don’t want to miss the Day 11 Food Diary!)

"Farewell My Concubine". Farewell my amazing adventure in China. Beijing, China, Asia. — “Farewell My Concubine”. Farewell my amazing adventure in China.

[Factual information is primarily gathered from Wikipedia, so you know it must be true.]

Summer Palace (and a Night at the Peking Opera!)

Summer Palace

Peking Opera

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