Central Beijing: Legation Quarter, Dazhalan, Tiananmen Square (Reprise), and Donghuamen Night Market

In the early afternoon, I left the Forbidden City through the northern Gate of Divine Prowess knowing that it would be incredibly hard to top that experience. Nonetheless, I still had a whole lot of Beijing to see. I hopped the bus outside the Forbidden City and wound through the streets of Beijing. One thing about Beijing, things that may look close on the map can be much further apart. Beijing is vast. At a mere 21.5 million, it’s China second city in population after Shanghai (and the world’s 3rd largest). But it covers more than 2 1/2 times the area of Shanghai. So in a couple ways, I guess it’s LA to Shanghai’s New York, as well as being China’s DC.

Legation Quarter

The very Gothic St. Michael's Church, built by the French in 1901. Beijing, China, Asia. — The very Gothic St. Michael’s Church, built by the French in 1901.

I arrived in an area southeast of the Forbidden City known as the Legation Quarter. As part of the treaty that ended the Second Opium War, foreign powers were allowed to set up shop in the imperial capital for the first time. Just like much of Shanghai, this area of Beijing became a little slice of Europe in East Asia.

Obscured angel outside St. Michael's. Beijing, China, Asia. — Obscured angel outside St. Michael’s.

Traditional Chinese elements outside Western-style architecture, peeking through to an elegant rockery. Beijing, China, Asia. — Traditional Chinese elements outside Western-style architecture, peeking through to an elegant rockery.

Not the least bit coincidentally, the Legation Quarter reminded me a lot of the French Concession in Shanghai. (But a lot colder.) Beijing, China, Asia. — Not the least bit coincidentally, the Legation Quarter reminded me a lot of the French Concession in Shanghai. (But a lot colder.)

Former National City Bank of New York, 1914. Now it's the home of the Beijing Police Museum. Beijing, China, Asia. — Former National City Bank of New York, 1914. Now it’s the home of the Beijing Police Museum.

Immediately across from the southeast corner of Tiananmen Square, the first railway station in imperial Beijing, built by the British in 1901. It now houses a railway museum. Tiananmen Square, Beijing, China, Asia. — Immediately across from the southeast corner of Tiananmen Square, the first railway station in imperial Beijing, built by the British in 1901. It now houses a railway museum.

Dazhalan

South of Tiananmen Square is a shopping district in an old part of Beijing with lots of traditional hutongs (alleyways). This was part of the congested “Chinese City”, where ethnic Chinese lived. This was apart from the luxurious Imperial City, where elite Manchus of the Qing Dynasty lived (including the Forbidden City). Dazhalan is the name of an important, several hundred-year-old street in the area. Now part of the shopping district is also known as Dazhalan.

Traditional arch in the shopping area south of Tiananmen Square. Beijing, China, Asia. — Traditional arch in the shopping area south of Tiananmen Square.

Lively shopping hutong. Beijing, China, Asia. — Lively shopping hutong.

Qianshi Hutong, known as Beijing's narrowest hutong. It's 2.3-feet wide, except where it goes down to 16 inches. Beijing, China, Asia. — Qianshi Hutong, known as Beijing’s narrowest hutong. It’s 2.3-feet wide, except where it goes down to 16 inches.

A preview of the night's dinner. Beijing, China, Asia. — A preview of the night’s dinner.

That's some good stuff! Beijing, China, Asia. — That’s some good stuff!

No idea what any of this says. But it's colorful! (And imagine trying to find something to eat when there's no western alphabet, let alone English, in sight.) Beijing, China, Asia. — No idea what any of this says. But it’s colorful! (And imagine trying to find something to eat when there’s no western alphabet, let alone English, in sight.)

A colorful shop on Dazhalan. Check out the beautiful falling snow! Beijing, China, Asia. — A colorful shop on Dazhalan. Check out the beautiful falling snow!

A stately qilin, a mythical Chinese creature, on post outside Tongrentang Drugstore. Tongrentang is a pharmaceutical company that goes back to 1669. Beijing, China, Asia. — A stately qilin, a mythical Chinese creature, on post outside Tongrentang Drugstore. Tongrentang is a pharmaceutical company that goes back to 1669.

Ruifuxiang, a silk shop on Dazhalan. I got a beautiful silk scarf here for my godmother. The company goes back to 1862. Beijing, China, Asia. — Ruifuxiang, a silk shop on Dazhalan. I got a beautiful silk scarf here for my godmother. The company goes back to 1862.

Looking back through the arch, seen a short while ago, towards the Arrow Tower at the southern end of Tiananmen Square. Here you can see the 94 windows where archers were stationed. You also get a great visual representation of Beijing's north-south axis. Tiananmen Square, Beijing, China, Asia. — Looking back through the arch, seen a short while ago, towards the Arrow Tower at the southern end of Tiananmen Square. Here you can see the 94 windows where archers were stationed. You also get a great visual representation of Beijing’s north-south axis.

Tiananmen Square Flag-Lowering Ceremony

It was time to head back to Tiananmen Square. There was no way I was going to make the sunrise flag-raising ceremony. But I made sure I’d be able to catch the flag-lowering ceremony at sunset.

Many of us gathered a 1/2 hour or so prior to sunset to get a good viewing spot. Trying to get a good picture, I walked in the path of marching military men on their way to formation. Tiananmen Square, Beijing, China, Asia. — Many of us gathered a 1/2 hour or so prior to sunset to get a good viewing spot. Trying to get a good picture, I walked in the path of marching military men on their way to formation.

I felt bad for this young solider who had to stand like a statue for the longest time in the snow and bitter cold...not to mention people snapping pictures of him. Tiananmen Square, Beijing, China, Asia. — I felt bad for this young solider who had to stand like a statue for the longest time in the snow and bitter cold…not to mention people snapping pictures of him.

After such a long wait...finally, here comes the color guard to get things going! Tiananmen Square, Beijing, China, Asia. — After such a long wait…finally, here comes the color guard to get things going!

Down she comes. Tiananmen Square, Beijing, China, Asia. — Down she comes.

The crowd gasped when suddenly the lights of Tiananmen came on once the flag was lowered. It really was a sight to behold.

Donghuamen Night Market

After my duck dinner, I walked to the infamous Donghuamen Night Market, off Beijing’s popular shopping street Wangfujing. [Shocking! I just read that the Donghuamen Night Market has closed.]