Old Delhi

In 1648, Shah Jahan, the Mughal emperor, moved the imperial capital from Agra to Delhi. In preparation for the move, he had a walled city called Shahjahanabad built in Delhi over the course of the preceding decade. (Nice of him to name the city after himself.) The emperor’s residence in Shahjahanabad was an enormous fortified palace built with red sandstone. (Red sandstone was a sight I became quickly familiar with during my trip.) Because of the building material and the heavy fortification, the residence became known as Lal Qila, the “Red Fort”.

Shahjahanabad remained the capital of the Mughal Empire right up until the end, in 1857, when India became a British territory. Today, the walls are gone. And Shahjahanabad is now called Old Delhi.

When I exited the subway station in central Delhi and stepped into the city, I was overcome by the throng of humanity. I took a few pictures, but nothing could capture the actual sensation. Delhi, India, Asia. — When I exited the subway station in central Delhi and stepped into the city, I was overcome by the throng of humanity. I took a few pictures, but nothing could capture the actual sensation.

Gates of Old Delhi

The walls are gone, but most of the city gates remain. I began my tour of Old Delhi by checking out a few of the ancient gates, located along what had been the southern wall of Shahjahanabad. I visited the gates, as I had planned. What I hadn’t planned on was a full-on onslaught of sensations that comprised the real India. I definitely had a feeling I wasn’t in New Delhi anymore.

Ajmeri Gate

After I left the train station, I was caught up in the humanity and had a hard time finding Ajmeri Gate. I finally asked some police where it was. Naturally, it was standing quite obviously right across the street. Ajmeri Gate is at the southwest corner of Old Delhi. Travelers would have exited the city walls through this gate to go to Ajmeri and other locations in Rajasthan. I passed through Ajmeri on my overnight train that night to Jodhpur.

Tuk-tuks parked in front of Ajmeri Gate, built in 1644. Delhi, India, Asia. — Tuk-tuks parked in front of Ajmeri Gate, built in 1644.

A kindly man approached me as I was perusing Ajmeri Gate. He didn’t want anything from me. He just wanted to help out a tourist. He implored me not to let the tuk-tuk drivers rip me off. He told me what locals would normally get charged, a fraction of what foreigners get charged. It was shockingly cheap. Like about a quarter. I’m not a haggler, so I couldn’t see myself bargaining down to such incredibly low rates. I was happy to pay a dollar or 2 for a ride around Delhi. He also told me a phrase, “jaa-o”, to say to get aggressive drivers and other entrepreneurs to leave me alone. A couple times on the trip, I got frustrated enough to use it.

I had finished up a drink I had gotten at a stand along the way. I looked around for a trash can where I could dispose of my empty cup. My Indian financial adviser told me to put the cup on the curb. I did. But I felt uncomfortable that I was contributing to India’s unsurmountable litter problem. I wondered why trash cans were so scarce. I also felt that it would just about take an act of to God to change attitudes if this kind man was so quick to have me leave trash sitting on the sidewalk.

Anyway, he pulled over a tuk-tuk for me and told the driver to take me where I wanted to go and to be sure to charge me the rate for locals. Before I left, my friend warned me to stay out of Old Delhi because a big protest would be going on later in the day.

Turkman Gate

Delhi's #1 tuk-tuk driver! (Funny, I hadn't previously noticed Delhi Stock Exchange in the background. It's not quite Wall Street, but it is along the route of the old city wall, so...) Delhi, India, Asia. — Delhi’s #1 tuk-tuk driver! (Funny, I hadn’t previously noticed Delhi Stock Exchange in the background. It’s not quite Wall Street, but it is along the route of the old city wall, so…)

My driver brought me to my next stop. We chatted along the way. He was just as friendly as the guy who pulled him over for me. He did indeed charge me a low, low rate. (It was a pretty short ride anyway.) Before pulling away, he warned me to stay out of Old Delhi because a big protest would be going on later in the day. Well, with these warnings piling up, you just know I couldn’t wait to get into Old Delhi to see what this protest was all about! The truth, however, is that I spent most of the day on the perimeter of or outside of where Shahjahanabad’s city walls used to stand. The protest appeared to be over by the time I finally got into the interior of Old Delhi, much later in the day.

Turkman Gate is located at the center of what was the southern portion of the wall surrounding Shahjahanabad. It is named for the adjacent tomb of a Sufi saint, a Muslim mystic. The tomb is from 1240. The gate is younger by about 400 years. Delhi, India, Asia. — Turkman Gate is located at the center of what was the southern portion of the wall surrounding Shahjahanabad. It is named for the adjacent tomb of a Sufi saint, a Muslim mystic. The tomb is from 1240. The gate is younger by about 400 years.

From Turkman Gate, I took a short walk into the interior of Old Delhi to check out a mosque. I soon felt like I had been transported to medieval times. I gradually became to believe that, putting aside motorized vehicles and cell phones, India has not yet entered modern times. In the center of a great city, there were farm animals in narrow alleys. I saw mobile chicken coops on carts. I watched for a while as men in a storefront hacked chicken carcasses into parts. The vehicles and cell phones were obviously imported from another place and time. The Industrial Revolution had not happened here.

A lemon cart in Old Delhi is all chiaroscuro in the dark shadows of a narrow street. Delhi, India, Asia. — A lemon cart in Old Delhi is all chiaroscuro in the dark shadows of a narrow street.

Back at Turkman Gate, rather than walk along the main street to my next stop, I decided to walk along a parallel side street. I’m guessing that the side street would have been within the southern wall protecting Shahjahanabad. I was glad I made this decision. It presented me with many authentic sights.

I posted a picture of this dog previously. It was one of the saddest sights I saw on my trip. Yet it was not entirely unrepresentative of what I saw in India. Later in my trip I was stunned when I saw a man walking a dog on a leash. Days into my trip, it was the first dog I saw in India that was clearly not a stray. Delhi, India, Asia. — I posted a picture of this dog previously. It was one of the saddest sights I saw on my trip. Yet it was not entirely unrepresentative of what I saw in India. Later in my trip I was stunned when I saw a man walking a dog on a leash. Days into my trip, it was the first dog I saw in India that was clearly not a stray.

Hanging loose in Old Delhi. This picture is slightly more lighthearted than the previous one. This guy looks like he's doing his best to get comfortable in a cool spot. Delhi, India, Asia. — Hanging loose in Old Delhi. This picture is slightly more lighthearted than the previous one. This guy looks like he’s doing his best to get comfortable in a cool spot.

Make way for goats in Old Delhi! India, Asia. — Make way for goats in Old Delhi!

Streetwalker with a comb-over in Old Delhi. India, Asia. — Streetwalker with a comb-over in Old Delhi.

Not exactly Green Acres. But, at least for this horse, Old Delhi is the place to be. Delhi, India, Asia. — Not exactly Green Acres. But, at least for this horse, Old Delhi is the place to be.

You've got to wonder how long this hulk has been rusting there. Old Delhi, India, Asia. — You’ve got to wonder how long this hulk has been rusting there.

Old Delhi alley cat. Delhi, India, Asia. — Old Delhi alley cat.

I think these kids in Old Delhi didn't trust me. Delhi, India, Asia. — I think these kids in Old Delhi didn’t trust me.

I was wondering how that dog got up there with that juicy looking piece of meant...and why she seems to be contemplating it, rather than gobbling it down. Delhi, India, Asia. — I was wondering how that dog got up there with that juicy looking piece of meant…and why she seemed to be contemplating it, rather than gobbling it down.

Delhi Gate

Near the end of the side road I took in Old Delhi, I came across the Shiv Mandir Hindu temple. Pretty cool! I didn't even notice the cobra sitting on the shoulder of Shiva, destroyer of evil and transformer of the universe. Delhi, India, Asia. — Near the end of the side road I took in Old Delhi, I came across the Shiv Mandir Hindu temple. Pretty cool! I didn’t even notice the cobra sitting on the shoulder of Shiva, destroyer of evil and transformer of the universe.

Delhi Gate, built in 1638, is near what was the southeastern corner of the wall surrounding Shahjahanabad (Old Delhi). Delhi Gate is directly south of the southern gate of the Red Fort, also named Delhi Gate.

Delhi Gate is also known as Dilli Gate. Dilli is another name for Delhi. India, Asia. — Delhi Gate is also known as Dilli Gate. Dilli is another name for Delhi.

A statue of Asaf Ali stands in a desolate traffic island near Delhi Gate. Asaf Ali was freedom fighter in India's struggle for independence. He later became the first Indian ambassador to the United States. Delhi, India, Asia. — A statue of Asaf Ali stands in a desolate traffic island near Delhi Gate. Asaf Ali was freedom fighter in India’s struggle for independence. He later became the first Indian ambassador to the United States.

Life's a beach for these dogs in a traffic island in Delhi. India, Asia. — Life’s a beach for these dogs in a traffic island in Delhi.

I read that you shouldn't give money to beggars in India because if you give to one, you'll soon be surrounded and hounded. But there were no other beggars in sight, so I gave money to this family and took this picture of their colorful clothes and balloons. Delhi, India, Asia. — I read that you shouldn’t give money to beggars in India because if you give to one, you’ll soon be surrounded and hounded. But there were no other beggars in sight, so I gave money to this family and took this picture of their colorful clothes and balloons.

The Gate of Blood

Khooni Darwasa (the “Gate of Blood”) stands to the south of where the walls surrounding Shahjahanabad used to stand. It is about a hundred years older than the gates of the old city walls. It was built by an earlier Islamic emperor who had his capital in Delhi. The Gate of Blood was not the structure’s original name. The name goes back to a legend of some Mughal emperors hanging the corpses of their enemies from the gate. The gate achieved further notoriety (and blood) in 1857 during the Indian Rebellion. A British officer kidnapped 2 sons and a grandson of the emperor who turned out to be the last Mughal emperor. The emperor saw the writing on the wall and surrendered to the British. The officer began transporting the 3 princes back to Shahjahanabad. He only got as far as Khooni Darwasa when he found himself surrounded by thousands of Muslim religious warriors. To demonstrate his ruthlessness, he brought the 3 princes out onto the street and shot each of them in cold blood.

Although fighting went on for more than another year, it was a lost cause for the Indians. India officially became a British colony. The last Mughal emperor was exiled to Burma. The Mughal Empire–officially came to an end.

Feroz Shah Kotla

Feroz Shah Kotra, now in ruins, was a fortified residence built in 1354 by Firuz Shah Tughlaq. Tughlaq, a sultan of Delhi, built Feroz Shah Kotra at the site of his capital city Ferozabad. (Note that just like Shah Jahan did a few centuries later, Feroz Shah Tughlaq named his capital city after himself.) Ferozabad was the 5th city of Delhi. Wait, what? The 5th city of Delhi?

Delhi is said to have had 7 cities. Each one was a fortified residential area built successively by sultans of Delhi or Mughal emperors. Shahjahanabad, now known as Old Delhi, was actually the 7th of the 7 cities. So I guess you could call Feroz Shah Kotra “Older Delhi”! Some consider New Delhi to be the 8th city of Delhi. New Delhi seems to fit the bill as it was a new city built to succeed Shahjahanabad as the Indian capital for a new (British) empire.

A woman takes in the impressive, beautiful ruins of Feroz Shah Kotla in Delhi. India, Asia. — A woman takes in the impressive, beautiful ruins of Feroz Shah Kotla in Delhi.

Go ahead and call them ruins. But these stone structures at Feroz Shah Kotla, with their Persian-influenced archways, are just gorgeous. Delhi, India, Asia. — Go ahead and call them ruins. But these stone structures at Feroz Shah Kotla, with their Persian-influenced archways, are just gorgeous.

Ashokan Pillar

The Ashokan Pillar is one of a number of such pillars located around India. The pillars were built by Ashoka, an Indian emperor from the 3rd century BC. Tughlaq had the pillar moved to its position of honor in Ferozabad from its original location over 100 miles to the north. The ancient inscription on the pillar remained a mystery until a Brit translated it in 1837, 5 centuries after it was erected at Feroz Shah Kotla.

Wow! It's hard to believe the pillar and its inscription are over 2,200 years old! The inscription is sort of a Hammurabi Code of India in the 3rd century BC. Delhi, India, Asia. — Wow! It’s hard to believe the pillar and its inscription are over 2,200 years old! The inscription is sort of a Hammurabi Code of India in the 3rd century BC.

Raj Ghat

I was hot, tired, and behind schedule, so I tuk-tukked it to Raj Ghat. “Raj Ghat” translates as “Royal Bank”. (“Bank” as in river bank. North India is known for its riverfront ghats.) Raj Ghat got its name from being the river bank along the imperial capital of Shahjahanabad. But its significance now is as the site of Gandhi’s cremation, which occurred the day after his assassination.

Possibly the most revered site in Delhi, the memorial at the location of Gandhi's cremation. The inscription by the bench translates as "Oh God," Gandhi's last words. Delhi, India, Asia. — Possibly the most revered site in Delhi, the memorial at the location of Gandhi’s cremation. The inscription by the bench translates as “Oh God,” Gandhi’s last words.

Red Fort

The Red Fort was Shah Jahan’s grand fortified palace of Shahjahanabad. Construction began in 1639 and took 9 years to complete. For over 200 years, the Mughal emperors ruled over their vast but shrinking empire from here. Things came to an end when the British officially took over in 1857. By that point, Shahjahanabad was all that was left of the Mughal Empire.

The enormous Lahore Gate, the main entrance to the Red Fort. It is so named because it faces Lahore to the west. Lahore is the great Punjabi and Mughal city located in what now is Pakistan. I'd love to make it someday. Red Fort, Delhi, India, Asia. — The enormous Lahore Gate, the main entrance to the Red Fort. It is so named because it faces Lahore to the west. Lahore is the great Punjabi and Mughal city located in what now is Pakistan. I’d love to make it someday.

Still tired and running behind, I took another tuk-tuk from Raj Ghat to the Red Fort. My driver seemed a little cranky. He dropped me off at the southern edge of the Red Fort, site of the Delhi Gate (but not the Delhi Gate I saw earlier). The Delhi gate was definitely closed to visitors, so I embarked on what was a bit of the long walk to the main entrance at the Lahore Gate. It was a busy beehive of humanity there. There was no shortage of long lines. But I realized that the ticket line for foreigners was much shorter than the one for locals. You pay for that privilege though. At just about all attractions I went to in India, foreigners pay a much, much higher price than locals do.

Weathered, but still lovely architectural detail at the Red Fort in Delhi. Red Fort, Delhi, India, Asia. — Weathered, but still lovely architectural detail at the Red Fort in Delhi.

Stunning archways at the Red Fort, a hallmark of Islamic architecture. Red Fort, Delhi, India, Asia. — Stunning archways at the Red Fort, a hallmark of Islamic architecture.

A royal hall in the palace at the Red Fort. Who needs red when you've got this beautiful white marble? Red Fort, Delhi, India, Asia. — A royal hall in the palace at the Red Fort. Who needs red when you’ve got this beautiful white marble?

Looking back at this picture of just beautiful detail, it reminds me of the Taj Mahal. There's a good reason for that. Both the Red Fort and the Taj Mahal were commissioned by Shah Jahan and designed by the same architect. Red Fort, Delhi, India, Asia. — Looking back at this picture of just beautiful detail, it reminds me of the Taj Mahal. There’s a good reason for that. Both the Red Fort and the Taj Mahal were commissioned by Shah Jahan and designed by the same architect.

The Zafar Mahal may look sort of funny. But when it was built in 1842 at the Red Fort, it was surrounded by water. A long-gone sandstone bridge used to reach the structure from the edge of the now dry tank. Red Fort, Delhi, India, Asia. — The Zafar Mahal may look sort of funny. But when it was built in 1842 at the Red Fort, it was surrounded by water. A long-gone sandstone bridge used to reach the structure from the edge of the now dry tank.

Out from the solace of the Red Fort, which looks beautiful here. About to enter the madness of Old Delhi. Red Fort, Delhi, India, Asia. — Out from the solace of the Red Fort (which looks beautiful here). About to enter the madness of Old Delhi.

Chandni Chowk

Traveling through Old Delhi by any means necessary! Delhi, India, Asia. — Traveling through Old Delhi by any means necessary!

Chandni Chowk (“Moonlight Square”) is the main street and main marketplace of Old Delhi. It leads from the Red Fort and into the heart of Old Delhi. I can only speak of the afternoon I was there. And of that I say, it was complete insanity. I had never experienced such chaos in my life. It was completely invigorating. And maddening!

The naked Jains! Monks of one branch of Jainism practice nudism. They have a temple directly opposite the Red Fort. Delhi, India, Asia. — The naked Jains! Monks of one branch of Jainism practice nudism. They have a temple directly opposite the Red Fort.

The domes of the Shri Digambar Jain Lal Mandir, Delhi's oldest Jain temple. Like the Red Fort across the street (and so many other monuments in North India), it's made of red sandstone. Delhi, India, Asia. — The domes of the Shri Digambar Jain Lal Mandir, Delhi’s oldest Jain temple. Like the Red Fort across the street (and so many other monuments in North India), it’s made of red sandstone.

Yes, this is the flow of traffic on Old Delhi's main street. People, cars, animals. (And what a beautiful view of the Red Fort's Lahore Gate in the background.) Red Fort, Delhi, India, Asia. — Yes, this is the flow of traffic on Old Delhi’s main street. People, cars, animals. (And what a beautiful view of the Red Fort’s Lahore Gate in the background.)

I wondered if all the madness was due to the protest I had been warned about in the morning. But I honestly think that this was just a typical day in Old Delhi. Alternatively, it’s quite possible that the whole city came out to welcome me to India!

Like I said. People, cars, animals. And tuk-tuks. Don't leave out the tuk-tuks! It's total delirium in Delhi! India, Asia. — Like I said. People, cars, animals. And tuk-tuks. Don’t leave out the tuk-tuks! It’s total delirium in Delhi!

Kinari Bazaar

I wanted to check out one of Old Delhi’s shopping bazaars. Kinari Bazaar was conveniently located along the way to my next stop, Jama Masjid. Shopping areas in Old Delhi often specialize in one category of goods. Kinari Bazaar is where locals head to pick up beautiful wedding apparel, along with decorative items and accessories. With all the shoppers strolling along the long, narrow passageway, it really felt like Kinari Bazaar could go on forever.

Did I say no room for vehicles at Kinari Bazaar? How foolish of me. Delhi, India, Asia. — Did I say no room for vehicles at Kinari Bazaar? How foolish of me.

And these things! I searched exhaustively online to find out what these were. I even asked a coworker from neighboring Nepal. The best we could figure out was that they were baskets for wedding gifts. Delhi, India, Asia. — And these things! I searched exhaustively online to find out what these were. I even asked a coworker from neighboring Nepal. The best we could figure out was that they were baskets for wedding gifts.

Jama Masjid

Jama Masjid (“Friday Mosque”) is India’s largest mosque. Like the Red Fort and the Taj Mahal, it was built by Shah Jahan. You can possibly guess by now that it’s built out of red sandstone. Looking at the minaret, you can see that white marble was used along with the red sandstone. I had the option of climbing to the top of that minaret and getting amazing views of Delhi. But I was WAY to exhausted by that point. Wasn’t going to happen.

Delhi's Jama Masjid, like every mosque, has a mihrab, a notch that indicates the direction of Mecca. Delhi, India, Asia. — Delhi’s Jama Masjid, like every mosque, has a mihrab, a notch that indicates the direction of Mecca.

Simply beautiful view of the Red Fort from Jama Masjid in Old Delhi. Red Fort, Delhi, India, Asia. — Simply beautiful view of the Red Fort from Jama Masjid in Old Delhi.

Like I said, Jama Masjid is a refuge of the insanity that is the streets of Old Delhi. India, Asia. — Like I said, Jama Masjid is a refuge of the insanity that is the streets of Old Delhi

Southwest to Rajasthan

The street in the photo above runs south from Jama Masjid. I took the street that runs west to get to the subway. Don’t worry. The street heading west was just as insane. Considering that I had to head back out to the airport area to pick up my bag at the hotel and then turn around and head back to central Delhi to catch a train, I was sort of over the madness. But I did what I had to do.

When I got back to central Delhi after retrieving my bag, I decided to catch a tuk-tuk to the Old Delhi train station, rather than take the subway. The train station seemed to not quite be located directly at the subway station, and I didn’t want to worry about navigating the narrow streets to find the train station. In retrospect, perhaps I should have stuck to the original subway plan.

The roads to the train station were completely clogged. Pedestrians were traveling faster than vehicles. (And the pedestrians were in the same traffic lanes as the vehicles, of course.) I had allowed plenty of time for my transfer, but time was starting to slip away. Eventually, my driver got as close to the station as he thought he was going to get. He pulled over and pointed out the general direction of the train station to me. Uh, okay.

Well, it all worked out. I made it to and through the decrepit station to the proper platform. Then I had to figure out which train car my berth was on. Like I described in an earlier post, I had to check out the dot matrix printout taped to the side of each car till I found my name. With plenty time to spare, I was settled into my berth and on my way to Rajasthan, India’s desert state, the Land of Kings!

[Factual information is primarily gathered from Wikipedia, so you know it must be true.]