India 2017, Day 3: Jodhpur

Welcome to Rajasthan, India’s desert state. Rajasthan is literally the “Land of the Kings”. I was very excited to visit Rajasthan as the name conjures up romantic images of extravagant palaces in the desert. I must say, it didn’t disappoint. My visit to Mehrangarh–the giant sandstone fort looming over Jodhpur in the center of Rajasthan–was the 1st major highlight of my trip.

I took this photo from the train as we approached Jodhpur. It made perfect sense to me that these trees were growing in the center of India's desert state. They reminded me so much of the Mojave Desert's Joshua trees. Jodhpur, India, Asia. — I took this photo from the train as we approached Jodhpur. It made perfect sense to me that these trees were growing in the center of India’s desert state. They reminded me so much of the Mojave Desert’s Joshua trees.

My first stop in Rajasthan was Jodhpur, India’s Blue City. Jodhpur was named after Rao Jodha, a warrior chief who founded the city in 1459. Jodhpur is known as the Blue City because of the color that houses in the old part of town are painted. My singular purpose for going to Jodhpur was to see the Blue City from high up at Mehrangarh, the “Sun Fort”. And that’s exactly what I did.

I arrived early in the morning in Jodhpur after my overnight night train from Delhi. My hotel was a short walk from the train station, right on the main street. A passing tuk-tuk driver offered me a ride. But it was such a short walk, I didn’t need it. Well, just one problem. I couldn’t find the hotel even though I knew exactly where it was supposed to be. The driver returned when he saw me looking around. This time, I took him up on his offer.

For the duration of the short ride, the driver tried to persuade me to check out his brother-in-law’s hotel. I told him a number of times I already had a reservation at the Govind Hotel. But he persisted. Within a minute or two, we arrived at the Govind Hotel. Sure enough, there was a bright red sign for the hotel. I still thought it was strange that the sign for the hotel wasn’t quite as noticeable as you’d expect a hotel sign to be. Indeed, it was a funny little place. I had to pay for my balance in cash when I arrived. My room was secured with a very large padlock. I certainly hadn’t see that at a hotel in all my travels. And there was no shower stall. Just a shower head on the bathroom wall and a drain in the floor. You could definitely say that was efficient, I suppose.

But what made the Govind Hotel a welcoming place to stay was the owner. He had a fatherly air about him. He made me feel like family. My room itself was full of character. It was colorfully painted and was furnished with a 4-poster bed. And there was a charming rooftop restaurant with views of Mehrangarh. I was starting to regret a little that I was only staying for the 1 night.

Sardar Market

At about a million people, Jodhpur is Rajasthan’s second largest city. Honestly, after 2 days in Delhi, if felt a small town.

I walked from the hotel to Sardar Market. “Bustling” doesn’t do it justice. Even Nai Sarak, the main shopping drag I walked up to get to Sardar Market, is a riot of retail.

Everyone's got something to sell in Jodhpur's Sardar market. And they're usually dressed quite colorfully as they're selling. Jodhpur, India, Asia. — Everyone’s got something to sell in Jodhpur’s Sardar market. And they’re usually dressed quite colorfully as they’re selling.

Ghanta Ghar, the clock tower that is the symbol of Sardar Market in Jodhpur. India, Asia. — Ghanta Ghar, the clock tower that is the symbol of Sardar Market in Jodhpur.

Kids in the Sardar Market in Jodhpur. Mehrangarh looms in the background over the marketplace. Mehrangarh, Jodhpur, India, Asia. — Kids in the Sardar Market in Jodhpur. Mehrangarh looms in the background over the marketplace.

So many colorful items for sale in Sardar Market in Jodhpur. I did some shopping in Pashmina House. Mehrangarh, Jodhpur, India, Asia. — So many colorful items for sale in Sardar Market in Jodhpur. I did some shopping in Pashmina House.

So, so many colorful items for sale in Sardar Market in Jodhpur! India, Asia. — So, so many colorful items for sale in Sardar Market in Jodhpur!

Jodhpur's master omelet chef in his outdoor kitchen. You can barely make out the "lonely planet" sign. The chef is very proud of the high recommendation he got from the venerable travel guide company. (And I can't say I disagree with their recommendation.) Jodhpur, India, Asia. — Jodhpur’s master omelet chef in his outdoor kitchen. You can barely make out the “lonely planet” sign. The chef is very proud of the high recommendation he got from the venerable travel guide company. (And I can’t say I disagree with their recommendation.)

Jodhpur's master omelet chef goes through a lot of eggs! (And he makes sure you never forget how highly recommended he is. Check out the sign above the eggs.) Jodhpur, India, Asia. — Jodhpur’s master omelet chef goes through a lot of eggs! (And he makes sure you never forget how highly recommended he is. Check out the sign above the eggs.)

Mehrangarh

From Sadar Market, it’s straight uphill to get to Mehrangarh, the forbidding fortress that looms over all Jodhpur. Mehrangarh sits on top of a hill over 400 feet above the city. One nice thing about the walk up to Mehrangarh is that the first half goes through a dense urban neighborhood. I was able to observe outdoor urban life in Jodhpur, farm animals and all.

When I reached the top of the hill at Mehrangarh, a new friend was waiting to greet me. (And just in case you didn't believe me when I said Rajasthan was India's desert state, here's proof!) Mehrangarh, Jodhpur, India, Asia. — When I reached the top of the hill at Mehrangarh, a new friend was waiting to greet me. (And just in case you didn’t believe me when I said Rajasthan was India’s desert state, here’s proof!)

The walk up to Mehrangarh overall wasn’t as difficult as I feared it might be. And it was worth it anyway. At close quarters to what had looked so forbidding from below, it turned out the beast was really a beauty. (And there’s a great audio guide to boot!) Mehrangarh turned out to possibly be the highlight of the 1st part of my trip, up till seeing the Taj Mahal.

View of Jodhpur, India's Blue City, from the hilltop fort of Mehrangarh. Off in the distance is the Umaid Bhawan Palace, home to Jodhpur's royal family. Mehrangarh, Jodhpur, India, Asia. — View of Jodhpur, India’s Blue City, from the hilltop fort of Mehrangarh. Off in the distance is the Umaid Bhawan Palace, home to Jodhpur’s royal family.

Jodhpur, bluer than most cities! Mehrangarh, Jodhpur, India, Asia. — Jodhpur, bluer than most cities!

Even up close, Mehrangarh is imposing. But I wasn't expecting the delicately carved palace walls rising above the fortifications. Mehrangarh, Jodhpur, India, Asia. — Even up close, Mehrangarh is imposing. But I wasn’t expecting the delicately carved palace walls rising above the fortifications.

A musical family at Mehrangarh. Mehrangarh, Jodhpur, India, Asia. — A musical family at Mehrangarh.

This is it! This is the view from Mehrangarh over Jodhpur's Blue City that I came to see! Mehrangarh, Jodhpur, India, Asia. — This is it! This is the view from Mehrangarh over Jodhpur’s Blue City that I came to see!

Gruesome! The spikes on Mehrangarh's main gate defended the fort from charging elephants in the service of enemies. Mehrangarh, Jodhpur, India, Asia. — Gruesome! The spikes on Mehrangarh’s main gate defended the fort from charging elephants in the service of enemies.

Gruesome! The handprints of the wives of a deceased Mehrangarh maharaja. After they made these handprints, the widows jumped onto the maharaja's funeral pyre to be joined with him for eternity. Mehrangarh, Jodhpur, India, Asia. — Gruesome! The handprints of the wives of a deceased Mehrangarh maharaja. After they made these handprints, the widows jumped onto the maharaja’s funeral pyre to be joined with him for eternity.

I just couldn't get over the exquisite palatial architecture hidden behind Mehrangarh's forbidding fortress walls. Mehrangarh, Jodphur, India, Asia. — I just couldn’t get over the exquisite palatial architecture hidden behind Mehrangarh’s forbidding fortress walls.

I mean, just look at that detail! I saw no apparent sign of such beauty when looking up at Mehrangarh from the Jodhpur below. Mehrangarh, Jodhpur, India, Asia. — I mean, just look at that detail! I saw no apparent sign of such beauty when looking up at Mehrangarh from the Jodhpur below.

Zooming in on Umaid Bhawan Palace, seen previously from a further out view. The palace, one of the world's largest private residences, is home to Jodhpur's royal family. One wing of the palace is now a luxury hotel. So you really can live like royalty! Mehrangarh, Jodhpur, India, Asia. — Zooming in on Umaid Bhawan Palace, seen previously from a further out view. The palace, one of the world’s largest private residences, is home to Jodhpur’s royal family. One wing of the palace is now a luxury hotel. So you really can live like royalty!

The Hindu temple on Mehrangarh's ramparts. Mehrangarh, Jodhpur, India, Asia. — The Hindu temple on Mehrangarh’s ramparts.

Love is blue, and so is Jodhpur. Mehrangarh, Jodhpur, India, Asia. — Love is blue, and so is Jodhpur.

Gallery Treasures

A howdah, a carriage for riding elephants, at Mehrangarh. Jodphur, India, Asia. — A howdah, a carriage for riding elephants, at Mehrangarh.

In additional to the impressive structure itself, Mehrangarh has a number of themed galleries with amazing Rajasthani treasures on display.

Another beautiful howdah on display at Mehrangard. (I can't say whether the elephant that had to carry it thought it was beautiful.) Mehrangarh, Jodhpur, India, Asia. — Another beautiful howdah on display at Mehrangard. (I can’t say whether the elephant that had to carry it thought it was beautiful.)

This guy's actual job at Mehrangarh his to sit in his nook all day smoking hookah! Mehrangarh, Jodhpur, India, Asia. — This guy’s actual job at Mehrangarh his to sit in his nook all day smoking hookah!

Seriously, look at the beautiful craftsmanship on the hidden palaces of Mehrangarh. Johpur, India, Asia. — Seriously, look at the beautiful craftsmanship on the hidden palaces of Mehrangarh.

More royal transport at Mehrangarh. This time, a palanquin. It's the humans' turn to do the heavy lifting. Mehrangarh, Jodphur, India, Asia. — More royal transport at Mehrangarh. This time, a palanquin. It’s the humans’ turn to do the heavy lifting.

In Mehrangarh's armory display, a 19th-century sword hilt decorated with a silver lion with eyes made of garnet. Mehrangarh, Jodhpur, India, Asia. — In Mehrangarh’s armory display, a 19th-century sword hilt decorated with a silver lion with eyes made of garnet.

Also on display in Mehrangarh's armory display, a stunning helmet. Mehrangarh, Jodhpur, India, Asia. — Also on display in Mehrangarh’s armory display, a stunning helmet.

I didn't expect to find fabulous palaces hidden behind Mehrangarh's forbidding walls. And I didn't expect to find such a cool staircase inside one of the fabulous, hidden palaces. Mehrangarh, Jodhpur, India, Asia. — I didn’t expect to find fabulous palaces hidden behind Mehrangarh’s forbidding walls. And I didn’t expect to find such a cool staircase inside one of the fabulous, hidden palaces.

Kaleidoscopic Halls

Within Mehrangah’s palaces are several stunning rooms called “mahals”. I frequently saw “mahal” translated as “palace”. For Taj Mahal, this seems appropriate. But for a room in a palace, “hall” seems more appropriate. So take in the following fabulous halls.

Mehrangarh's Sheesh Mahal, "Hall of Mirrors", decorated with paintings of Hindu gods. Mehrangarh, Jodhpur, India, Asia. — Mehrangarh’s Sheesh Mahal, “Hall of Mirrors”, decorated with paintings of Hindu gods.

Mehrangarh's dazzling Phool Mahal, "Hall of Flowers", decorated with gold filigree. Mehrangarh, Jodhpur, India, Asia. — Mehrangarh’s dazzling Phool Mahal, “Hall of Flowers”, decorated with gold filigree.

Truly dazzling detail in Mehrangarh's Phool Mahal, "Hall of Flowers". Mehrangarh, Jodhpur, India, Asia. — Truly dazzling detail in Mehrangarh’s Phool Mahal, “Hall of Flowers”.

The gold filigree ceiling in Mehrangarh's Phool Mahal, "Hall of Flowers", is no less stunning than the walls and stained-glass windows. Mehrangarh, Jodhpur, India, Asia. — The gold filigree ceiling in Mehrangarh’s Phool Mahal, “Hall of Flowers”, is no less stunning than the walls and stained-glass windows.

A beautifully detailed helmet on display in Mehrangarh. Jodhpur, India, Asia. — A beautifully detailed helmet on display in Mehrangarh.

The ornate Takhat Vilas, "Place of Strenth". The floor is painted to look like a carpet. It was the royal apartment of the last maharaja of Jodhpur to live in Mehrangarh. Jodhpur, India, Asia. — The ornate Takhat Vilas, “Place of Strenth”. The floor is painted to look like a carpet. It was the royal apartment of the last maharaja of Jodhpur to live in Mehrangarh.

A palatial inner courtyard at Mehrangarh. Jodhpur, India, Asia. — A palatial inner courtyard at Mehrangarh.

In Mehrangarh's 16th-century Moti Mahal, "Hall of Pearls". Crushed shells were mixed into the lime plaster on the walls to give a pearl-like luster. The ceilings are decorated with gold filigree. Mehrangarh, Jodhpur, India, Asia. — In Mehrangarh’s 16th-century Moti Mahal, “Hall of Pearls”. Crushed shells were mixed into the lime plaster on the walls to give a pearl-like luster. The ceilings are decorated with gold filigree.

Back to Market

A pretty 18th-century reservoir near Sardar Market. Jodhpur, India Asia. — A pretty 18th-century reservoir near Sardar Market.

After I was done touring the no longer menacing Mehrangarh, it was back downhill. Sardar Market was even more bustling than before. I had to get some pictures of the lively scene. Like much of what I had already experienced in my short time in India so far, it was nothing like I’d ever seen before.