Forts of Jaipur

Jaipur has 3 historic forts. I visited 2 of them on Day 5. But first, I made a return visit to the Hawa Mahal to get a picture with better light.

Amer Fort

In the morning, I toured Amer Fort on the outskirts of Jaipur. The Amer Fort is also known as the Amber Fort. But it has nothing to do with amber, the stuff that dinosaur DNA gets fossilized in. The Amer Fort is 1 of the 6 forts that make up the Hill Forts of Rajasthan UNESCO world heritage site. (It is beyond me why Mehrangarh in Jodphur is not included. It was my favorite of all the Indian forts I visited on my trip.)

Amer Approach

First sight of the Amer Fort. Even though it's yellow and often called the Amber Fort, it has nothing to do with actual amber. Amer Fort, Jaipur, India, Asia. — First sight of the Amer Fort. Even though it’s yellow and often called the Amber Fort, it has nothing to do with actual amber.

To get to Amer, I first planned to catch a bus to the center of Jaipur. This was the same bus I unsuccessfully tried to catch on the morning of Day 4. I was also unsuccessful in catching the bus on the morning to Day 5. But walking to the bus stop, I saw what should have been a large patch of grass. Instead, it was a large patch of trash. The litter problem in India is terrible. But the patch of trash came in handy later in the day.

Directly behind Amer Fort is Jaiharh Fort, the only 1 of Jaipur's 3 historic forts I didn't visit. Amer Fort, Jaipur, India, Asia. — Directly behind Amer Fort is Jaiharh Fort, the only 1 of Jaipur’s 3 historic forts I didn’t visit.

Fortunately, I had no trouble catching the bus to Amer. Well, I had help. A guy approached me when he saw me looking around for the bus stop. I was wary because I thought he was going to try to sell me something or otherwise try to get money out of me. Nope, he was just a friendly guy looking to help out a tourist. I hopped on the bus when it pulled up, and I was impressed at how efficient it was. A woman at the mid-bus entrance asked me where I was going, told me how much I had to pay, and then gave me a printed receipt once I paid. If only all of India worked so efficiently!

It looks like the Great Wall of China, but it's not! It's part of the fortifications around Jaipur, seen here from the Amer Fort. Jaipur, India, Asia. — It looks like the Great Wall of China, but it’s not! It’s part of the fortifications around Jaipur, seen here from the Amer Fort.

The bus ride to Amer was quite scenic and, surprisingly to me, slightly mountainous. The road was very winding when it got to the mountainous part. The most fun part of the trip was when the bus had to give wide berth to a guy riding a camel. That’s Rajasthan for you!

Travelers in the know are advised not to ride the elephants up to Amer Fort. It's bad for the elephants. And it's known that the elephants are not well treated. I hope India puts a stop to it some day. I mostly saw pasty-white tourists riding the elephants. Amer Fort, Jaipur, India, Asia. — Travelers in the know are advised not to ride the elephants up to Amer Fort. It’s bad for the elephants. And it’s known that the elephants are not well treated. I hope India puts a stop to it some day. I mostly saw pasty-white tourists riding the elephants.

I think this elephant was saying, "Save me!" I can't help but wonder how safe the paint is to their skin. Amer Fort, Jaipur, India, Asia. — I think this elephant was saying, “Save me!” I can’t help but wonder how safe the paint is to their skin.

Suraj Pol (Sun Gate), one of the entranceways to the Amer Fort. Jaipur, India, Asia. — Suraj Pol (Sun Gate), one of the entranceways to the Amer Fort.

Inside Amer Fort

The magnificent Ganesh Pol (Ganesh Gate, named for the elephant god). Built in the early 17th century, it is the entrance to the royal palace within Amer Fort. Jaipur, India, Asia. — The magnificent Ganesh Pol (Ganesh Gate, named for the elephant god). Built in the early 17th century, it is the entrance to the royal palace within Amer Fort.

Amer Fort was built over the period from the 16th to 18th centuries.

Beautiful island garden in the lake at the foot of Amer Fort. Jaipur, India, Asia. — Beautiful island garden in the lake at the foot of Amer Fort.

Exquisite detail inside the palace at the Amer Fort. Jaipur, India, Asia. — Exquisite detail inside the palace at the Amer Fort.

Mughal-style garden in a courtyard at Amer Fort. Jaipur, India, Asia. — Mughal-style garden in a courtyard at Amer Fort.

At the Amer Fort, it's all about the Sheesh Mahal (Hall of Mirrors). It's hard to capture its dazzlement in pictures. Amer Fort, Jaipur, India, Asia. — At the Amer Fort, it’s all about the Sheesh Mahal (Hall of Mirrors). It’s hard to capture its dazzlement in pictures.

Indisputably dazzling. The ceiling in the Sheesh Mahal at Amer Fort. It was built so that the reflections of a single lit candle would create the impression of a starlit sky. Amer Fort, Jaipur, India, Asia. — Indisputably dazzling. The ceiling in the Sheesh Mahal at Amer Fort. It was built so that the reflections of a single lit candle would create the impression of a starlit sky.

Shimmering detail in the Sheesh Mahal at Amer Fort. Jaipur, India, Asia. — Shimmering detail in the Sheesh Mahal at Amer Fort.

More dazzling detail in the Sheesh Mahal at the Amer Fort. Jaipur, India, Asia. — More dazzling detail in the Sheesh Mahal at the Amer Fort.

Delicate restoration work being done in the palace at the Amer Fort. Jaipur, India, Asia. — Delicate restoration work being done in the palace at the Amer Fort.

This chamber at the Amer Fort needs a bit of restoration. But you still get a sense of the cool detail. Amer Fort, Jaipur, India, Asia. — This chamber at the Amer Fort needs a bit of restoration. But you still get a sense of the cool detail.

You can imagine how beautiful this detail at the Amer Fort would look upon restoration. Amer Fort, Jaipur, India, Asia. — You can imagine how beautiful this detail at the Amer Fort would look upon restoration.

I'm pretty sure the basket was empty. But posing for pretty pictures like this is a good way to solicit tips! Amer Fort, Jaipur, India, Asia. — I’m pretty sure the basket was empty. But posing for pretty pictures like this is a good way to solicit tips!

After touring the main part of Amer Fort, I checked out the beautiful Shila Devi Temple, which is down a long flight of stairs from the main fort. Unfortunately, photographs are strictly forbidden at this Hindu temple. So not only do I not have pictures, I don’t recall much about it, other than being very impressed.

Leaving Amer

A very cool shikhara, a temple tower, at a temple in Amer. I thought it was a Jain temple. It may be, or it may be Hindu. I thought "stupa" was the correct word, but it may not be. Jaipur, India, Asia. — A very cool shikhara, a temple tower, at a temple in Amer. I thought it was a Jain temple. It may be, or it may be Hindu. I thought “stupa” was the correct word, but it may not be.

Once my visit to Amer Fort was complete I took the long way back to the main road so I could see a little of the village.

There is no shortage of colorful displays in Indian markets. Jaipur, India, Asia. — There is no shortage of colorful displays in Indian markets.

Walking down the main road through Amer, I realized that I was at the bus top for the bus back to central Jaipur. I also realized the bus to Jaipur was there and ready to take off. You haven’t experienced life until you’ve run and then jumped onboard a moving bus in India!

Seen from the bus on the way back to central Jaipur: the beautiful Jal Mahal (the Water Palace). Jaipur, India, Asia. — Seen from the bus on the way back to central Jaipur: the beautiful Jal Mahal (the Water Palace).

After I got off the bus in central Jaipur, I had to connect to the bus that would get me close to the hotel. Fighting traffic to walk to the bus stop was an adventure in itself. But the bus never seemed to come. A tuk-tuk driver was happy to pick me up. But within seconds, he dropped me off because he couldn’t figure out where I needed to go. Another driver picked me up. His English was also minimal. But he was determined not to give up like the 1st guy!

We had a fun time driving through Jaipur in the general direction of the hotel. He stopped a number of times to ask for help from people who looked like they spoke English. A student at a private school and someone driving an expensive-looking motorcycle made likely targets. We eventually got to the neighborhood where the hotel was, but it was still tricky to get to the exact location.

Suddenly, a sign! Not a sign, literally, but a patch of trash. It was the roadside patch of trash that had for some reason made an impression on me that morning while walking to the bus stop (where I was never able to catch the bus). Once I saw that patch of trash, I knew I just had to follow my morning route backwards to the hotel. Hotel Pearl Palace ahoy!

Nahargarh

After lunch at the hotel, I had a tuk-tuk driver take me to the base of the trail up to Nahargarh (the Tiger Fort). The driver was pissed I didn’t want him to wait for me after my visit to the hilltop fort. I’m sure a driver could make at least a normal day’s pay by taking a Westerner somewhere and waiting for him to return then bring him back. But I can’t relax if I know someone is waiting for me like that. I learned that when I had a driver wait for me the night before when he brought me to dinner.

Approaching Nahargarh

I felt bad for all the skinny cows I saw that were kept on such short chains or ropes. Jaipur, India, Asia. — I felt bad for all the skinny cows I saw that were kept on such short chains or ropes.

The beginning of the ascent to Nahargarh was a steep, narrow street that went past several residences. Living conditions are far below what we expect in the developed world. The people do seem happy though. I can’t exactly say the same about the animals.

Imagine this being your backyard! (Who am I to talk? I don't even have a yard!) Jaipur, India, Asia. — Imagine this being your backyard! (Who am I to talk? I don’t even have a yard!)

The climb to the top of the hill where Nahargarh sits wasn’t too bad. (Nahargarh is actually located at the southern tip of the same ridge that the Amer Fort sits on.)

Further up the hill on the ascent to Nahargarh, the residences stopped, but not the skinny tethered cows. Jaipur, India, Asia. — Further up the hill on the ascent to Nahargarh, the residences stopped, but not the skinny tethered cows.

I loved this! I could see these women coming from afar, toting their loads down the windy path from Nahargarh in Jaipur. I got this shot was I was close up. Jaipur, India, Asia. — I loved this! I could see these women coming from afar, toting their loads down the windy path from Nahargarh in Jaipur. I got this shot was I was close up.

At Nahargarh

Nahargarh was built in the 18th century, after Amer Fort was completed. But it clearly hasn’t gone through the restorative process that the Amer Fort and the rest of the forts I saw in India had.

There's much restoration work to be done at Nahargarh. But you can still see some of its dazzling detail. Jaipur, India, Asia. — There’s much restoration work to be done at Nahargarh. But you can still see some of its dazzling detail.

More worn but still beautiful detail at Nahargarh, the fort above Jaipur. India, Asia. — More worn but still beautiful detail at Nahargarh, the fort above Jaipur.

I have to admit, the best part of visiting Nahargarh was the view over Jaipur. If you know where to look, you can see Jantar Mantar. It's the tiny yellow triangular thing just above and to the right of the patch of grass at the center. Jantar Mantar, Jaipur, India, Asia. — I have to admit, the best part of visiting Nahargarh was the view over Jaipur. If you know where to look, you can see Jantar Mantar. It’s the tiny yellow triangular thing just above and to the right of the patch of grass at the center.

Looking across the roofs at Nahargarh. Jaipur, India, Asia. — Looking across the roofs at Nahargarh.

Beautiful painted decoration in Nahargarh. Jaipur, India, Asia. — Beautiful painted decoration in Nahargarh.

You can imagine the royals of Jaipur hanging out in this palace chamber at Nahargarh centuries ago. Jaipur, India, Asia. — You can imagine the royals of Jaipur hanging out in this palace chamber at Nahargarh centuries ago.

Monkeys Shine

This monkey at Nahargarh is hard at work being a monkey. Jaipur, India, Asia. — This monkey at Nahargarh is hard at work being a monkey.

My sightseeing for the day was done, so I hung out for a while with the frolicking monkey outside Nahargarh before make the descent back into Jaipur.

Ghost monkey of Nahargarh. Jaipur, India, Asia. — Ghost monkey of Nahargarh.

As I began heading down the hill, a youngish guy approached me. Once again I was wary because once again I figured it was someone trying to get money from me. Wrong again! It was a young guy in town for work from another part of India. He had taken a taxi to Nahargarh from Amer Fort. He wasn’t sure how to get back into central from Jaipur directly from Nahagarh. We walked together all the way down the hill and chatted quite a bit. I was able to fill him in a bit about sightseeing in Jaipur. This happens wherever I go!

This monkey sat in a corner and sulked because my time at Nahargarh (and my sightseeing in Jaipur) had come to an end. Jaipur, India, Asia. — This monkey sat in a corner and sulked because my time at Nahargarh (and my sightseeing in Jaipur) had come to an end.

At the bottom of a hill, I hopped a tuk-tuk. I asked the driver to take me to an ATM because I was running out of cash. Unfortunately, so was all of India. He had to take me all over Jaipur to find an ATM with cash. The rest of my trip, I made sure to never run out of cash.

(Now stay tuned for Day 6 and the best train ride ever!)

[Factual information is primarily gathered from Wikipedia, so you know it must be true.]