Central Agra

Day 6 was so challenging, I seriously questioned the wisdom of traveling the way that I do. I mean, who goes sightseeing around India independently and not with a tour group? On the morning of Day 7, that all melted away, like an ice cube under the hot Indian sun.

Taj Mahal

I did what I was told to do. I got up at o-dark-thirty to be at the Taj Mahal at dawn. This is something I would never normally do. (People who know me know that I’m not remotely close to being a morning person.) But everything I read said that you have to see the Taj Mahal in the dawn light. Fortunately, it was just a 10-minute walk from my hotel to the east gate of the Taj Mahal. And I can force myself to get up early if it’s worth it. This was DEFINITELY worth it.

There was already a line at the east gate when I arrived pre-dawn. It was probably about a half hour before security starting letting us in. I was sweating it a little bit because I was planning on showing my reservation on my phone but everyone else had printouts. (Bags aren’t allowed inside the Taj Mahal, so I didn’t bring anything else, even my printout, with me.) Fortunately, the e-copy on my phone was good enough.

Inside the east gate, the 1st sight to see was the grand Darwaza-i-rauza, the Great Gate. It was built with the same red sandstone I had see pretty much everywhere on my trip. Marble on the Great Gate is inlaid with colored stones to create floral designs. This mirrors the design on the Taj Mahal itself. Of course the Taj is made of all white marble instead of red sandstone.

The Taj Mahal complex is surrounded by a perimeter. Even though I could see the Taj from my hotel room, it was not visible from outside the wall. It comes into view as you enter the Great Gate. Seeing that view in the picture below still takes my breath away.

Passing through the Great Gate to get the first breathtaking view of the Taj Mahal. Agra, India, Asia. — Passing through the Great Gate to get the first breathtaking view of the Taj Mahal.

After I passed through the gate, my eyes welled up as they caught the first full-on view of the Taj Mahal. This has never happened on any of my trips. The Great Wall of China might be in the running, but the Taj Mahal is easily the world’s greatest tourist attraction.

The view of the Taj Mahal that brought tears to my eyes. Taj Mahal, Agra, India, Asia. — The view of the Taj Mahal that brought tears to my eyes.

You can see in the pictures that one of the minarets was covered in scaffolding for restoration work. It didn’t matter. The Taj Mahal is just that stunning in person.

The long view of the Taj Mahal. As you can see, I beat the crowds by going at dawn. Taj Mahal, Agra, India, Asia. — The long view of the Taj Mahal. As you can see, I beat the crowds by going at dawn.

As you may know, the Taj Mahal is a monument to undying love. Mughal emperor Shah Jahan built the Taj Mahal to house the tomb of Mumtaz Mahal, his favorite wife. Shah Jahan gave Mumtaz Mahal her name, meaning “the exalted one of the palace”. Taj Mahal itself means “Crown of the Palaces”. After his death, Shah Jahan himself was entombed next to Mumtaz Mahal. Together forever.

Getting closer to pure beauty. The Taj Mahal's stunning detail is starting to come into view. Taj Mahal, Agra, India, Asia. — Getting closer to pure beauty. The Taj Mahal’s stunning detail is starting to come into view.

Yes, I took a lot of pictures of the Taj Mahal. Can you blame me?

Very close now. The detail is entrancing. Taj Mahal, Agra, India, Asia. — Very close now. The detail is entrancing.

Now you can really appreciate the gorgeous detail on the world's most beautiful building. Taj Mahal, Agra, India, Asia. — Now you can really appreciate the gorgeous detail on the world’s most beautiful building.

Looking back over the grounds of the Taj Mahal towards the Great Gate from the plinth (supporting platform) that the white marble mausoleum sits on. Taj Mahal, Agra, India, Asia. — Looking back over the grounds of the Taj Mahal towards the Great Gate from the plinth (supporting platform) that the white marble mausoleum sits on.

Construction for the entire complex–the mausoleum itself, the gate, and other features–took over 20 years.

Just beautiful! White marble inlaid with semi-precious stones, a style known as pietra dura, is a trademark of the type of architecture favored by Shah Jahan. Taj Mahal, Agra, India, Asia. — Just beautiful! White marble inlaid with semi-precious stones, a style known as pietra dura, is a trademark of the type of architecture favored by Shah Jahan.

Pictures aren’t allowed inside the mausoleum. Inside the central chamber are the sarcophagi of Mumtaz Mahal and Shah Jahan. However, the sarcophagi are strictly for show. The actual tombs are hidden from the public in a lower chamber directly below the central chamber.

Inside the mausoleum, more delicate pietra dura, marble inlaid with stone. (Technically, no photography was allowed inside. Honestly, everyone else was taking pictures, so I did too.) Taj Mahal, Agra, India, Asia. — Inside the mausoleum, more delicate pietra dura, marble inlaid with stone. (Technically, no photography was allowed inside. Honestly, everyone else was taking pictures, so I did too.)

Inside the Taj Mahal, stunning floral relief carved into the marble, surrounded by pietra dura. Taj Mahal, Agra, India, Asia. — Inside the Taj Mahal, stunning floral relief carved into the marble, surrounded by pietra dura.

The back of the Taj Mahal has a lovely view of the Yamuna, one of the largest tributaries of the Ganges. Taj Mahal, Agra, India, Asia. — The back of the Taj Mahal has a lovely view of the Yamuna, one of the largest tributaries of the Ganges.

The Mosque and Its Twin

The red sandstone mosque on the western side of the Taj Mahal. Agra, India, Asia. — The red sandstone mosque on the western side of the Taj Mahal.

Bas relief in red sandstone, surrounded with inlaid stone, at the mosque at the Taj Mahal. Agra, India, Asia. — Bas relief in red sandstone, surrounded with inlaid stone, at the mosque at the Taj Mahal.

Beautiful decor on the ceiling of the mosque at the Taj Mahal. Agra, India, Asia. — Beautiful decor on the ceiling of the mosque at the Taj Mahal.

Mesmerizing detail on the inner dome of the mosque at the Taj Mahal. Agra, India, Asia. — Mesmerizing detail on the inner dome of the mosque at the Taj Mahal.

On the eastern side of the Taj Mahal is a building nearly identical to the mosque on the other side. It was built to give symmetry to the complex. I took this picture from inside. Taj Mahal, Agra, India, Asia. — On the eastern side of the Taj Mahal is a building nearly identical to the mosque on the other side. It was built to give symmetry to the complex. I took this picture from inside.

Ceiling detail on the mosque's twin at the Taj Mahal. Agra, India, Asia. — Ceiling detail on the mosque’s twin at the Taj Mahal.

Monkeys of the Taj Mahal!

After I had done my main tour of the Taj Mahal, I was able to relax and I started noticing all the monkeys on the grounds. Taj Mahal, Agra, India, Asia. — After I had done my main tour of the Taj Mahal, I was able to relax and I started noticing all the monkeys on the grounds.

This Taj Mahal monkey let me get so close, it's obvious they are very used to being around people. Taj Mahal, Agra, India, Asia. — This Taj Mahal monkey let me get so close, it’s obvious they are very used to being around people.

These monkeys were having a blast, completely oblivious to the fact that they live at the world's most beautiful building. Taj Mahal, Agra, India, Asia. — These monkeys were having a blast, completely oblivious to the fact that they live at the world’s most beautiful building.

One last lovely look at the world's most beautiful building. Taj Mahal, Agra, India, Asia. — One last lovely look at the world’s most beautiful building.

Agra Fort

Back at the hotel, I checked out, stored my bag, and waited outside for my friends from Day 6–the tuk-tuk driver and his toothy-smiled pal. We had agreed that they would pick me up at 12:30 and bring me to Agra Fort. While I was waiting, a tuk-tuk driver parked at the hotel next door kept offering to give me a ride. I wasn’t at all surprised that the tuk-tuk two never showed up. I wasn’t going to give them the revenue windfall they were hoping for. So I finally took up the next-door neighbor on his offer. I asked the driver to drop me off at the Agra Fort train station. It seemed like a reasonable-sounding drop-off spot. I didn’t realize that the main entrance to Agra Fort was a mile away from its namesake station. So I had a brisk walk in the sun along the massive red structure’s ramparts.

Agra Fort was the home of the Mughal emperors for the 1st half of the 17th century, until the Mughal capital was moved one final time to Delhi. The Red Fort in Delhi was the final palatial home of the Mughals. Agra Fort is sometimes referred to as the Red Fort. Like the Red Fort in Delhi, it’s built from red sandstone. But it’s officially known as Agra Fort so as not to confuse the 2.

Within Agra Fort, an internal gate through the wall surrounding the palace complex. Agra Fort, Agra, India, Asia. — Within Agra Fort, an internal gate through the wall surrounding the palace complex.

Agra Fort was built by Akbar the Great, Shah Jahan’s grandfather.

Jahangir's Hauz. 5-feet-tall and with a circumference of 25 feet, it was originally used for taking royal baths. Agra Fort, Agra, India, Asia. — Jahangir’s Hauz. 5-feet-tall and with a circumference of 25 feet, it was originally used for taking royal baths.

Fatehpur Sikri, the Taj Mahal, and Agra Fort make up Agra’s 3 UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

A lovely palace gate at Agra Fort. Agra, India, Asia. — A lovely palace gate at Agra Fort.

Throughout my trip, I marveled at the intricate detail done in red sandstone. Agra Fort, Agra, India, Asia. — Throughout my trip, I marveled at the intricate detail done in red sandstone.

Marble pavilion at the Khas Mahal Palace within Agra Fort. Agra, India, Asia. — Marble pavilion at the Khas Mahal Palace within Agra Fort.

Front view of the marble Khas Mahal at Agra Fort. Agra, India, Asia. — Front view of the marble Khas Mahal at Agra Fort.

Beautiful ceiling work in the Khas Mahal at Agra Fort. Agra, India, Asia. — Beautiful ceiling work in the Khas Mahal at Agra Fort.

The charming Anguri Bagh ("Grape Garden") at Agra Fort. Agra, India, Asia. — The charming Anguri Bagh (“Grape Garden”) at Agra Fort.

Beautiful pavilion in the Khas Mahal at Agra Fort. Agra, India, Asia. — Beautiful pavilion in the Khas Mahal at Agra Fort.

This beautiful pietra dura is a telltale sign that Shah Jahan was involved in the construction of this palace complex at Agra Fort. Agra, India, Asia. — This beautiful pietra dura is a telltale sign that Shah Jahan was involved in the construction of this palace complex at Agra Fort.

Although Agra Fort was built by Akbar the Great, his grandson Shah Jahan built opulent additions, primarily the white marble palace complex seen in the pictures above. In 1658, the elderly Shah Jahan was deposed by Aurangzeb, his son with Mumtaz Mahal. Aurangzeb placed his father in house arrest in Agra Fort. For the last 7 1/2 years of his life, Shah Jahan sat by the window in his palace prison to enjoy the view of the Taj Mahal, his monument to Mumtaz Mahal, who had died in 1631.

The view of the Taj Mahal that Shah Jahan had during his 7 1/2 years of imprisonment at Agra Fort. Agra, India, Asia. — The view of the Taj Mahal that Shah Jahan had during his 7 1/2 years of imprisonment at Agra Fort.

In 1666, Shah Jahan died and joined Mumtaz Mahal for eternity in the tomb at the Taj Mahal.

Gorgeous white marble in a palatial hall at Agra Fort. Agra, India, Asia. — Gorgeous white marble in a palatial hall at Agra Fort.

The alcove in the Diwan-i-Aam ("Hall of Public Audience") at Agra Fort. The Mughal Emperor would greet his subjects below from the Peacock Throne in the alcove. Agra Fort, Agra, India, Asia. — The alcove in the Diwan-i-Aam (“Hall of Public Audience”). The Mughal Emperor would greet his subjects below from the Peacock Throne in the alcove.

Full view of the Diwan-i-Aam ("Hall of Public Audience") at Agra Fort. Agra, India, Asia. — Full view of the Diwan-i-Aam (“Hall of Public Audience”) at Agra Fort.

Agra Street Life

After touring my 2nd UNESCO World Heritage Site of the day, I took a walk through Agra to get to a couple lesser known sites. I encountered busy street life on the way.

Out for a stroll in Agra. India, Asia. — Out for a stroll in Agra.

I think this cow is coming down the wrong side of the street! Agra, India, Asia. — I think this cow is coming down the wrong side of the street!

I enjoyed this colorful scene as I approached Agra's grand mosque. Agra, India, Asia. — I enjoyed this colorful scene as I approached Agra’s grand mosque.

Jama Masjid

Jama Masjid (“Friday Mosque”) is one of India’s largest mosques. It was built in 1648 in honor of Shah Jahan’s eldest daughter.

After walking through Agra’s frenzied streets, I was enjoying a relaxing time at the mosque. An old man came up to me and handed me a sarong to put on because I was wearing shorts. He told me it was disrespectful to be naked. Then, naturally, he asked me for money.

Beautiful white marble mihrab in Agra's Jama Masjid, pointing the way to Mecca. Agra, India, Asia. — Beautiful white marble mihrab in Agra’s Jama Masjid, pointing the way to Mecca.

Agra Fort Railway Station

My guidebook suggested checking out the architecture at Agra Fort Railway Station. Honestly, I didn’t find it that interesting. What I loved were the monkeys (of course!) that made the station their home.

Don't be fooled by the demure look on this monkey sitting on the edge of the platform. After I took this picture, I felt a tug. Then I realized the monkey had leapt up and grabbed my bottle of soda right out of my hand! Agra, India, Asia. — Don’t be fooled by the demure look on this monkey sitting on the edge of the platform. After I took this picture, I felt a tug. Then I realized the monkey had leapt up and grabbed my bottle of soda right out of my hand!

I watched this baby monkey break off from his mother, scurry down the post, and climb on the man sitting there. Agra, India, Asia. — I watched this baby monkey break off from his mother, scurry down the post, and climb on the man sitting there.

I was surprised the baby monkey's mother didn't come promptly to get the baby back in line. But man and monkey were having too much fun! Agra, India, Asia. — I was surprised the baby monkey’s mother didn’t come promptly to get the baby back in line. But man and monkey were having too much fun!

Well, on Day 6, I was ready to throw in the towel. Day 7 renewed my faith in India…and me!

[Factual information is primarily gathered from Wikipedia, so you know it must be true.]