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San Francisco 2016, Chinatown Revisited

There were a few spots in Chinatown that were closed when I went to visit them on Day 7.  I decided a return visit was in order.  I was able to return pretty easily, considering that according to official San Francisco definitions, I live in Chinatown!

St. Mary’s Square/Old St. Mary’s Cathedral

A historic Catholic church is not the first thing that comes to mind when picturing Chinatown.  Nevertheless, Old St. Mary’s Cathedral is an important site in Chinatown.  On the way to Old St. Mary’s, I passed through St. Mary’s Square, a small park directly across the street.

Proudly standing in St. Mary's Square, the 14-foot red granite and stainless steel sculpture of Sun Yat-sen, father of the Chinese Republic, by Beniamino Bufano. San Francisco, United States, North America.
Proudly standing in St. Mary’s Square, the 14-foot red granite and stainless steel sculpture of Sun Yat-sen, father of the Chinese Republic, by Beniamino Bufano.

Also in St. Mary’s Square is a memorial to Chinese-Americans who died in World War I and II.

From St. Mary’s Square, I crossed California Street and the cable car line to visit Old St. Mary’s.  Old St. Mary’s was closed when Francisco and I stopped by on Day 7.  This was the 1st reason why I revisited Chinatown.

The Gothic Revival Old St. Mary's was the first cathedral in California. It was the tallest building in California when it was built in 1854. The foundations were custom-made in China. The bricks were brought in from New England. San Francisco, United States, North America.
The Gothic Revival Old St. Mary’s was the first cathedral in California. It was the tallest building in California when it was built in 1854. The foundations were custom-made in China. The bricks were brought in from New England.
The hushed interior of Old St. Mary's in Chinatown. San Francisco, United States, North America.
The hushed interior of Old St. Mary’s in Chinatown.
St. Patrick gives a blessing on a stained-glass window in Old St. Mary's in Chinatown. San Francisco, United States, North America.
St. Patrick gives a blessing on a stained-glass window in Old St. Mary’s in Chinatown.
A Michelangelo-inspired Pietà in Old St. Mary's in Chinatown. San Francisco, United States, North America.
A Michelangelo-inspired Pietà in Old St. Mary’s in Chinatown.
The beautiful chancel in Old St. Mary's in Chinatown. From left to right above the altar: "St. Michael The Archangel", "The Assumption", and "The Annunciation". San Francisco, United States, North America.
The beautiful chancel in Old St. Mary’s in Chinatown. From left to right above the altar: “St. Michael The Archangel”, “The Assumption”, and “The Annunciation”.

And that concludes the non-Chinese portion of our revisit to Chinatown.

Chinese Historical Society of America

The Chinese Historical Society of America’s museum is Chinatown’s hidden gem.  It was really hidden for most of 2016, when it was closed for the installation of a new major exhibit.  It was still closed when Francisco and I stopped by on Day 7.  (But I did take a couple pictures of the exterior of the historic building, designed by local favorite Julia Morgan as the Chinatown YWCA in 1932.)  This was the 2nd reason why I revisited Chinatown.

A decorative hallway at the Chinese Historical Society of America. San Francisco, United States, North America.
A decorative hallway at the Chinese Historical Society of America.

The CHSA was closed for several months during the installation of what is now its signature exhibit:  “Chinese American:  Exclusion/Inclusion”.  The exhibit covers the history of Sino-American relations and the Chinese-American experience.  A major focus of the exhibit is the impact of the Chinese Exclusion Act, which prohibited the immigration of Chinese to the United States for over 40 years.

These WWII-era items on display show American sympathy for the Chinese under the brutal occupation of the Japanese. The alliance between the 2 nations during the war led to the repeal of the Chinese Exclusion Act in 1943. San Francisco, United States, North America.
These WWII-era items on display show American sympathy for the Chinese under the brutal occupation of the Japanese. The alliance between the 2 nations during the war led to the repeal of the Chinese Exclusion Act in 1943.
In the center of the display in the previous picture is the picture of Madame Chiang Kai-shek on the cover of Time magazine. Madame Chiang, somewhat like the Eleanor Roosevelt of China, toured the US to get wartime support for China. Like her husband Chiang Kai-shek, she fled to Taiwan when the Communists won the Chinese Civil War. She died at 105 in New York in 2003. San Francisco, United States, North America.
In the center of the display in the previous picture is the picture of Madame Chiang Kai-shek on the cover of Time magazine. Madame Chiang, somewhat like the Eleanor Roosevelt of China, toured the US to get wartime support for China. Like her husband Chiang Kai-shek, she fled to Taiwan when the Communists won the Chinese Civil War. She died at 105 in New York in 2003.
Anyone up for a game of ping-pong diplomacy with the Chairman and Tricky Dick? San Francisco, United States, North America.
Anyone up for a game of ping-pong diplomacy with the Chairman and Tricky Dick?
The CHSA has a collection of miniature dioramas of Chinatown scenes by a local artist. This one depicts a banquet for Chinese New Year. San Francisco, United States, North America.
The CHSA has a collection of miniature dioramas of Chinatown scenes by a local artist. This one depicts a banquet for Chinese New Year.
Americans' sympathetic feelings towards Chinese people in the '40s quickly changed in the '50s. This was due to the Communist takeover in China and Chinese involvement in the Korean War. A Chinatown businessman commissioned a local artist, James Leong, to create this mural to help Chinese-Americans regain the sympathy of their countrymates. One Hundred Years: History of the Chinese in America is 5 feet tall and 17 1/2 feet long. San Francisco, United States, North America.
Americans’ sympathetic feelings towards Chinese people in the ’40s quickly changed in the ’50s. This was due to the Communist takeover in China and Chinese involvement in the Korean War. A Chinatown businessman commissioned a local artist, James Leong, to create this mural to help Chinese-Americans regain the sympathy of their countrymates.  One Hundred Years: History of the Chinese in America is 5 feet tall and 17 1/2 feet long.

There’s a lot of symbolism in the long mural.  On the left, rice paddy workers toil in the field, while a dragon, representing China, flies over the Great Wall.  Next, a man looks toward a gold mountain, which represents America and San Francisco  The Chinese believed America and San Francisco to be a land and city of gold thanks to the Gold Rush.  Like this man, the next 2 men have left their families behind to work in America, panning for gold and creating the Transcontinental Railroad.  Later on, women have now come to America.  The brick wall represents segregation and Exclusion.  Chinese culture blossoms in America as a lion dance is performed for Chinese New Year.  A soldier serves as a reminder that Chinese-Americans fought for their country in WWII but faced discrimination back home.  At the end of the struggle, a Chinese-American family embraces the American dream and their 2 cultures.

The mural was controversial in its time.  Some Chinatown residents were unhappy with how Chinese-Americans were depicted.  Some groups–the FBI, the Chinese Communist Party, and others–thought James Leong had painted secret messages into the mural.  The mural fell into neglect and disrepair.  In 2000, James Leong restored his mural to its original glory.  The mural is now considered a landmark artwork of cultural history.

In 1951, a year before his historical mural, James Leong painted this lighthearted mural. Its lightheartedness is appropriate as it was intended for a children's bedroom. San Francisco, United States, North America.
In 1951, a year before his historical mural, James Leong painted this lighthearted mural. Its lightheartedness is appropriate as it was intended for a children’s bedroom.
A charming garden creature at the Chinese Historical Society of America. San Francisco, United States, North America.
A charming garden creature at the Chinese Historical Society of America.

Portsmouth Square

Once more, I returned to Portsmouth Square, Chinatown’s gathering spot.

A local cultural group puts on a performance in Portsmouth Square. San Francisco, United States, North America.
A local cultural group puts on a performance in Portsmouth Square.
Local ladies practice their fan dancing outside the Chinese Culture Center at the Hilton Financial District. San Francisco, United States, North America.
Local ladies practice their fan dancing outside the Chinese Culture Center at the Hilton Financial District.

I actually didn’t go back to Portsmouth Square for the heck of it.  I went to return to the Chinese Culture Center, which was closed when Francisco and stopped by on Day 7.  That’s right, the 3rd reason why I revisited Chinatown.  Unfortunately, it was closed again on my return trip to Chinatown.

Stockton Street

After dinner in Chinatown, I walked down Stockton Street on the way home.  Grant Avenue is where the tourists congregate, going into overpriced trinket shops and admiring the Chinese lanterns strung over the street.  Stockton Street is the heart of authentic Chinatown.

Chinatown locals doing their weekend shopping at the markets that line Stockton Street. San Francisco, United States, North America.
Chinatown locals doing their weekend shopping at the markets that line Stockton Street.

Chinese Culture Center/41 Ross

I returned to Chinatown a week later because I was determined to see the Chinese Culture Center.  The Chinese Culture Center features contemporary art by Chinese-American artists.  When I got there, the main exhibit area was closed for renovations.  Foiled again!  However, the staff directed me to 41 Ross, their satellite gallery located just a few blocks away.

In this exhibit at 41 Ross, comic artist Kayan Cheung-Miaw illustrates the story of her life from being born in Hong Kong to growing up in New York's Chinatown. San Francisco, United States, North America.
In this exhibit at 41 Ross, comic artist Kayan Cheung-Miaw illustrates the story of her life from being born in Hong Kong to growing up in New York’s Chinatown.
Scenes from Kayan Cheung-Miaw's youth in New York. San Francisco, United States, North America.
Scenes from Kayan Cheung-Miaw’s youth in New York.

Final Farewell, Chinatown

Having at last made a visit to the Chinese Culture Center, it was time to wrap up my 4 days exploring Chinatown.  Even outside the galleries, there so much great art to see out on the street for anyone passing by.

The "Ross Alley 1889" mural depicts 19th-century immigrants from China. The somewhat ominous tone reflects the tough time Chinese immigrants (primarily male) had in San Francisco at the time. San Francisco, United States, North America.
The “Ross Alley 1889” mural depicts 19th-century immigrants from China. The somewhat ominous tone reflects the tough time Chinese immigrants (primarily male) had in San Francisco at the time.
"Harmony" in Chinatown. San Francisco, United States, North America.
“Harmony” in Chinatown.

Well, I think my revisits to Chinatown were definitely worth the (short) trips.

And that’s San Francisco.  Do you love it or what!

[Factual information is primarily gathered from Wikipedia, so you know it must be true.]

Related posts:

San Francisco 2016, Day 1, Part 2 San Francisco 2016, Day 4, Part 2 The 2016 BSFBB Awards The 2017 BSFBB Awards

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