Barbary Coast Trail–Old U.S. Mint to Telegraph Hill

Welcome to San Francisco! You’re gonna love it!

The Beefeater at the Sir Francis Drake welcomes you to San Francisco! United States, North America. — The Beefeater at the Sir Francis Drake welcomes you to San Francisco!

I decided to begin my San Francisco sightseeing with the Barbary Coast Trail. The Barbary Coast Trail is a walking tour that cuts across many of Downtown San Francisco’s neighborhood with stops along the way at several historic sites. In other words, it’s San Francisco’s equivalent to Boston’s Freedom Trail. I revisited most of these neighborhoods during subsequent sightseeing days, and I’ve tried to minimize overlap between these pictures and ones that will come later. Nob Hill is one neighborhood on the trail that I didn’t subseqeuntly return to. So I did an in-depth visit to Nob Hill on Day 1. (That comes in Part 2.)

“Barbary Coast” refers to the wild boom days of San Francisco created by the California Gold Rush of 1849. The Barbary Coast was named after the original Barbary Coast in North Africa. Both areas were notorious for pirates, slave areas, and dive bars. (In San Francisco, it was common for sailors to be shanghaied into maritime service.) One waterfront area of San Francisco was particularly concentrated with sailors, miners, and prostitutes. This was the heart of San Francisco’s Barbary Coast.

Old U.S. Mint

Start here! San Francisco, United States, North America. — Start here!

The Barbary Coast Trail begins in the South of Market (SOMA) District. The first stop along the trail is the Old U.S. Mint, with the above plaque out front. During its operating days, the Old U.S. Mint was known as the Fort Knox of the West. Early morning shadows made it difficult to get a good picture. Stay tuned for a better picture on Day 3, when I returned to SOMA.

Hallidie Plaza

Hallidie Plaza is best known as the spot where the famous cable cars turn around at the bottom of Powell Street. It was named after Andrew Hallidie, who invented the cable cars.

Author Dashiell Hammett worked in the Flood Building (above) as a detective with the Pinkerton Detective Agency. His work there inspired his novels, such as “The Maltese Falcon”.

Union Square

Union Square, named for the Union Army during the Civil War, is San Francisco’s premier shopping and hotel district. I returned here on Day 3. But on Day 1, I stopped in the Westin St. Francis, one of San Francisco’s historic hotels. It was built in 1904 and survived the 1906 earthquake, but was destroyed by the resultant fire. Just a year later, it was rebuilt and reopened, becoming a favorite of dignitaries and celebrities. In 1921, actor Fatty Arbuckle was accused of manslaughter in the death of a young actress in room at the St. Francis. The trial was a sensation. He was acquitted, but his career was as dead as the actress.

Historic clock in the lobby of the Westin St. Francis. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Historic clock in the lobby of the Westin St. Francis.

Chinatown

I’m going back to Chinatown on Day 7, my last sightseeing day of the year. I can’t tell how my pictures will be, so I’ve got plenty of pictures from Chinatown here for Day 1.

If you’ve read any of my history on China, you know that the 19th century was miserable for China. Not surprisingly, thousands of Chinese came to America to find opportunity. Many found work building the railroads (as near-slave labor). Many of them settled in San Francisco when the work was done, creating the largest Chinese community outside of Asia. Everybody knows Chinatown is a major San Francisco attraction. I’ll go into more detail on Day 7.

Guarding the Gate. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Guarding the Gate.

One of my favorite views, looking down California Street along the cable car line from Nob Hill toward the San Francisco-Oakland Bay Bridge. San Francisco, United States, North America. — One of my favorite views, looking down California Street along the cable car line from Nob Hill toward the San Francisco-Oakland Bay Bridge.

The architecture in Chinatown has lots of the little details (and colorful paint) to give it a unique neighborhood flavor. San Francisco, United States, North America. — The architecture in Chinatown has lots of the little details (and colorful paint) to give it a unique neighborhood flavor.

Dragon disks on a building in Chinatown. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Dragon disks on a building in Chinatown.

More fun dragon decor. San Francisco, United States, North America. — More fun dragon decor.

First Chinese Baptist Church. Built in 1888 and, like everything else, destroyed by the 1906 earthquake. It was rebuilt in 1906. San Francisco, United States, North America. — First Chinese Baptist Church. Built in 1888 and, like everything else, destroyed by the 1906 earthquake. It was rebuilt in 1906.

No matter where you are in Downtown San Francisco, including Chinatown, it's hard to escape the Transamerica Pyramid. Once the tallest building in the West, it's the tallest building in San Francisco. But not for much longer. San Francisco, United States, North America. — No matter where you are in Downtown San Francisco, including Chinatown, it’s hard to escape the Transamerica Pyramid. Once the tallest building in the West, it’s the tallest building in San Francisco. But not for much longer.

West of Downtown are San Francisco's famous Painted Ladies. Chinatown has its own colorful dames: the painted balconies. San Francisco, United States. — West of Downtown are San Francisco’s famous Painted Ladies. Chinatown has its own colorful dames: the painted balconies.

Golden Gate Fortune Cookies. I took a picture of the ladies making fortune cookies. It wasn't until I saw the picture later that I saw the sign saying I should have paid for the privilege. Oops! San Francisco, United States, North America. — Golden Gate Fortune Cookies. I took a picture of the ladies making fortune cookies. It wasn’t until I saw the picture later that I saw the sign saying I should have paid for the privilege. Oops!

Yup, looks like Chinatown to me! San Francisco, United States, North America. — Yup, looks like Chinatown to me!

Portsmouth Square

Portsmouth Square, San Francisco’s first town square, is on the edge of Chinatown where it meets the Financial District. It’s a popular relaxation spot for residents of Chinatown, and it’s got a lot of history. In 1846, the first American flag was flown over San Francisco here. In 1848, the discovery of gold was announced here, and the rush was on.

Looking up Nob Hill, with the Mark Hopkins on the left and the tower of the Fairmont rising up in the center. As you can see, Day 1 was a gorgeous day. California, United States, North America. — Looking up Nob Hill, with the Mark Hopkins on the left and the tower of the Fairmont rising up in the center. As you can see, Day 1 was a gorgeous day.

What a surprise to find these guys in the lobby of the Hilton! (The Chinese Cultural Center is housed in the Hilton.) They are replicas of soldiers from China's famous Terracotta Army, complete with their original paint jobs. San Francisco, United States, North America. — What a surprise to find these guys in the lobby of the Hilton! (The Chinese Cultural Center is housed in the Hilton.) They are replicas of soldiers from China’s famous Terracotta Army, complete with their original paint jobs.

Here it is, where the first American flag was flown over San Francisco. You can also see what Portsmouth Square is named after. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Here it is, where the first American flag was flown over San Francisco. You can also see what Portsmouth Square is named after.

Monument in Portsmouth Square honoring Robert Louis Stevenson, who briefly lived in San Francisco. The ship atop the monument is the "Hispaniola" from his classic "Treasure Island". San Francisco, United States, North America. — Monument in Portsmouth Square honoring Robert Louis Stevenson, who briefly lived in San Francisco. The ship atop the monument is the “Hispaniola” from his classic “Treasure Island”.

Monument at the site of the first public school in California. which was erected in 1847. San Francisco, United States. — Monument at the site of the first public school in California. which was erected in 1847.

Morning tai chi in Portsmouth Square. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Morning tai chi in Portsmouth Square.

Commercial Street

Commercial Street is a very narrow street running from Chinatown down to the Embarcadero Center. Before the land was filled in, Long Wharf used to extend 2,000 feet into San Francisco Bay from the end of Commercial Street out to where the Ferry Building now is. The axis of the Embarcadero Center corresponds to where Long Wharf used to be. Commercial Street is a quiet stretch in boisterous Downtown San Francisco. I didn’t take any pictures there, but I’ll return on Day 7 to visit the Pacific Heritage Museum. The Pacific Heritage Museum is on the site of the first U.S. Mint on the West Coast, built to process all that gold.

Montgomery Street

All that gold (as well as all of the businesses that sprang up to service and supply the mining industry) created a need for banks. The banks came and set up shop on and around Montgomery Street. Soon, Montgomery Street became known as the Wall Street of the West. These banks turned San Francisco into the major financial center that it still is today.

The Bank of Italy Building, built in 1908 to replace the bank's previous building, you guessed it, destroyed in the 1906 earthquake. The Bank of Italy, was actually an American bank that served the Italian community in North Beach. By 1930, the bank had branches throughout California and changed its name to Bank of America. You might have heard of it. San Francisco, United States, North America. — The Bank of Italy Building, built in 1908 to replace the bank’s previous building, you guessed it, destroyed in the 1906 earthquake. The Bank of Italy, was actually an American bank that served the Italian community in North Beach. By 1930, the bank had branches throughout California and changed its name to Bank of America. You might have heard of it.

Hitch your pony to a post on Leidesdorff Street. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Hitch your pony to a post on Leidesdorff Street.

Leidesdorff Street (a narrow alley, actually) is named for William Leidesdorff, honored with this plaque. Leidesdorrf was a settler of African and Scandinavian descent. He was an important businessman and political leader in San Francisco in the years prior to the Gold Rush. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Leidesdorff Street (a narrow alley, actually) is named for William Leidesdorff, honored with this plaque. Leidesdorrf was a settler of African and Scandinavian descent. He was an important businessman and political leader in San Francisco in the years prior to the Gold Rush.

A plaque commemorating the Pony Express. San Francisco's booming economy necessitated faster communications with the East Coast. Riders traveled by horseback from St. Joseph, Missouri, as far as Sacramento. From there mail was shipped down the Sacramento River by riverboat to San Francisco. The Pony Express only operated for 19 months. The transcontinental telegraph quickly put the ponies out of business. San Francisco, United States, North America. — A plaque commemorating the Pony Express. San Francisco’s booming economy necessitated faster communications with the East Coast. Riders traveled by horseback from St. Joseph, Missouri, as far as Sacramento. From there mail was shipped down the Sacramento River by riverboat to San Francisco. The Pony Express only operated for 19 months. The transcontinental telegraph quickly put the ponies out of business.

Jackson Square

Jackson Square is a pretty architectural district of historic buildings.

My friend Tommy joined me for part of the day. Here he is in front of the Belli Building. Built in 1851 as a warehouse, it became a theater during San Francisco's boom years. A century later, it was bought by Marvin Belli--lawyer to Jack Ruby, among many other notables. He converted it into law offices. San Francisco, United States, North America. — My friend Tommy joined me for part of the day. Here he is in front of the Belli Building. Built in 1851 as a warehouse, it became a theater during San Francisco’s boom years. A century later, it was bought by Marvin Belli–lawyer to Jack Ruby, among many other notables. He converted it into law offices.

Directly across from the Belli Building, this plaque commemorates the first Jewish services held in California. The services were held in 1849 by a small group of Jews who came to San Francisco to strike it rich. The following year, they founded Congregation Emanu-El. I visited their new temple later on in the 2016 sightseeing season. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Directly across from the Belli Building, this plaque commemorates the first Jewish services held in California. The services were held in 1849 by a small group of Jews who came to San Francisco to strike it rich. The following year, they founded Congregation Emanu-El. I visited their new temple later on in the 2016 sightseeing season.

The Bank of Lucas, Turner and Company, also known as Sherman's Bank, was built in 1853-1854 under the supervision of William Tecumseh Sherman. Sherman had just left military service and had been sent to manage the San Francisco branch of the bank. He left in 1857 when the branch closed. A few years later, he rejoined the Army and wreaked havoc on the South in the Civil War. San Francisco, United States, North America. — The Bank of Lucas, Turner and Company, also known as Sherman’s Bank, was built in 1853-1854 under the supervision of William Tecumseh Sherman. Sherman had just left military service and had been sent to manage the San Francisco branch of the bank. He left in 1857 when the branch closed. A few years later, he rejoined the Army and wreaked havoc on the South in the Civil War.

Probably the prettiest building in Jackson Square, the Hotaling Building. It was built in 1866 by a wealthy businessman to house the headquarters for his businesses. Like other buildings in Jackson Square, it withstood the 1906 earthquake and survived the subsequent fire due to a mile-long fire hose that was run from Fisherman's Wharf and across Telegraph Hill. San Francisco, California, North America. — Probably the prettiest building in Jackson Square, the Hotaling Building. It was built in 1866 by a wealthy businessman to house the headquarters for his businesses. Like other buildings in Jackson Square, it withstood the 1906 earthquake and survived the subsequent fire due to a mile-long fire hose that was run from Fisherman’s Wharf and across Telegraph Hill.

Old Barbary Coast

This neighborhood in the Jackson Square area was the bawdiest part of San Francisco in its boom days. The stretch along Pacific Street was destroyed by the 1906 earthquake. It was rebuilt, rejuvenating the area with somewhat less bawdy entertainment establishments. The strip became known as Terrific Street.

The Hippodrome, built in 1907, was a popular saloon during the Terrific Street days. It's an art store now, but the front entrance still retains its old-time flavor. San Francisco, United States, North America. — The Hippodrome, built in 1907, was a popular saloon during the Terrific Street days. It’s an art store now, but the front entrance still retains its old-time flavor.

I was quite surprised at how good this picture of the Comstock Saloon came out considering that I took it through a dark window. Like the Hippodrome, the Comstock Saloon opened in 1907 as part of the rebirth of the area. Future boxing champ Jack Dempsey was a bouncer here. The pulley-operated ceiling fan, called a punkah, is from 1916. San Francisco, United States, North America. — I was quite surprised at how good this picture of the Comstock Saloon came out considering that I took it through a dark window. Like the Hippodrome, the Comstock Saloon opened in 1907 as part of the rebirth of the area. Future boxing champ Jack Dempsey was a bouncer here. The pulley-operated ceiling fan, called a punkah, is from 1916.

Beat San Francisco

The next stop on the Barbary Coast Trail is called “Beat San Francisco”. I think most people would just call it North Beach. North Beach was the West Coast HQ of the Beat Generation. Beat luminaries such as Jack Kerouac and Allen Ginsburg were regulars at local establishments such as City Lights Bookstore and Vesuvio Cafe. I spent most of Day 2 visiting locations in North Beach, including the fantastic Beat Museum, so you’ll be able to see most of my North Beach pictures with Day 2’s set.

Detail from the Zapatista mural in Jack Kerouac Alley on the side of City Lights Bookstore. The mural depicts scenes from the troubled Mexican state of Chiapas. This is a replica of the original mural painted in Chiapas and destroyed by the Mexican government. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Detail from the Zapatista mural in Jack Kerouac Alley on the side of City Lights Bookstore. The mural depicts scenes from the troubled Mexican state of Chiapas. This is a replica of the original mural painted in Chiapas and destroyed by the Mexican government.

Washington Square

Washington Square is North Beach’s big, beautiful park. I returned here on Day 2. But I kept the pictures from Day 1 because it was such a gorgeous day.

San Franciscans rush out to their local park when the weather is this perfect. San Francisco, United States, North America. — San Franciscans rush out to their local park when the weather is this perfect.

I complimented this Washington Square regular on his pants, gave him a donation, and asked to take his picture. He looked very dignified. San Francisco, United States, North America. — I complimented this Washington Square regular on his pants, gave him a donation, and asked to take his picture. He looked very dignified.

This guy was ranting so much, I didn't think he'd notice me taking his picture. I was wrong. San Francisco, United States, North America. — This guy was ranting so much, I didn’t think he’d notice me taking his picture. I was wrong.

This bike was so weird (in other words, so San Francisco), I had to take its picture. I had to suspect that it belonged to the guy in the previous picture. San Francisco, United States, North America. — This bike was so weird (in other words, so San Francisco), I had to take its picture. I had to suspect that it belonged to the guy in the previous picture.

Telegraph Hill

Telegraph Hill is one of Downtown San Francisco’s 3 hills. (The other 2 are Nob Hill and Russian Hill.) Telegraph Hill rises above North Beach and is famously topped by Coit Tower. Long before Coit Tower was erected, a signal tower on top of the hill alerted San Franciscans to the arrival of ships. This signaling device gave Telegraph Hill its name.

The Barbary Coast Trail has a spur that climbs to the top of Telegraph Hill to reach Coit Tower. I knew I’d be visiting Telegraph Hill on Day 2, so I skipped it for now. The main part of the trail does run along the slopes of the hill. It brought me to what seemed to be a secret spot in Downtown San Francisco and to the first really stunning views of the day.

Jack Early Park is a steep green sliver on the north slope of Telegraph Hill. Here is the entrance at Grant Avenue. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Jack Early Park is a steep green sliver on the north slope of Telegraph Hill. Here is the entrance at Grant Avenue.

At the top of the park is a viewing platform, accompanied by fabulous views. Behold, San Francisco Bay! San Francisco, United States, North America. — At the top of the park is a viewing platform, accompanied by fabulous views. Behold, San Francisco Bay!

The Bay Bridge, reaching across to Oakland, passing through Yerba Buena Island along the way. San Francisco, United States, North America. — The Bay Bridge, reaching across to Oakland, passing through Yerba Buena Island along the way.

Finishing up Part 1 with the one, the only, the Golden Gate Bridge. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Finishing up Part 1 with the one, the only, the Golden Gate Bridge.

[Factual information is primarily gathered from Wikipedia, so you know it must be true. Information is also gathered from “The Official Guide To San Francisco’s Barbary Coast Trail.]

Comments

James V says

June 3, 2018 at 2:54 pm

Hi Billy! I’m virtually exploring SF in search of “lost treasure”, and your photos were a big help. Thanks for sharing!

- Billy says
  
  August 6, 2018 at 2:19 pm
  
  Hi James, Not sure why I’m just now noticing your comment on my blog post, more than 2 months after you left it. I’m glad my SF pics have been helpful to you. Let me know if I can be of any more help!
  Billy O
  
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