The Mission (Part 2) and the Castro

The Mission (Part 2)

Dolores Street and Mission Dolores

Dolores Street is a lovely boulevard running near the western edge of the Mission, where the Mission becomes the Castro. It runs along the eastern edge of Dolores Park. A couple blocks to the north is Mission Dolores, one of San Francisco’s most significant historic sites.

A cool-looking ficus tree on Dolores Street in the Mission. San Francisco, United States, North America. — A cool-looking ficus tree on Dolores Street in the Mission.

The interior of Mission Dolores's church is surprisingly detailed considering that the exterior is quite simple. The ceiling is painted in a design created by the Ohlone, the original native inhabitants of the region. San Francisco, United States, North America. — The interior of Mission Dolores’s church is surprisingly detailed considering that the exterior is quite simple. The ceiling is painted in a design created by the Ohlone, the original native inhabitants of the region.

Mission Dolores was founded in 1776 as Misión San Francisco de Asís, named for St. Francis of Assisi. The mission gave the city of San Francisco its name. The mission became informally known as Mission Dolores for the nearby creek, Arroyo de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores (Our Lady of Sorrows Creek). The current mission church was built in 1791, making it the oldest building in San Francisco.

It's always nice to tie things together. Here in the church is the final resting place of William Leidesdorff, whom we previously met on Day 1 along the Barbary Coast Trail. San Francisco, United States, North America. — It’s always nice to tie things together. Here in the church is the final resting place of William Leidesdorff, whom we previously met on Day 1 along the Barbary Coast Trail.

Burial marker of the Noe family, for whom the Noe Valley neighborhood is named. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Burial marker of the Noe family, for whom the Noe Valley neighborhood is named.

The beautiful altar was brought in from Mexico. San Francisco, United States, North America. — The beautiful altar was brought in from Mexico.

The lovely interior of the Mission Dolores Basilica, built in 1918 immediately adjacent to the mission church. San Francisco, United States, North America. — The lovely interior of the Mission Dolores Basilica, built in 1918 immediately adjacent to the mission church.

St. Francis, San Francisco himself, in brilliant stained glass in the Mission Dolores Basilica. San Francisco, United States, North America. — St. Francis, San Francisco himself, in brilliant stained glass in the Mission Dolores Basilica.

Blazing stained glass in the Mission Dolores Basilica! San Francisco, United States, North America. — Blazing stained glass in the Mission Dolores Basilica!

Shrine of Our Lady of Guadalupe in the Mission Dolores Basilica. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Shrine of Our Lady of Guadalupe in the Mission Dolores Basilica.

Angels we have seen on high in the Mission Dolores Basilica. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Angels we have seen on high in the Mission Dolores Basilica.

This colorful mural by San Francisco artist Guillermo Granizo represents the colonization of the San Francisco Bay Area by the Spanish, the creation of the great city of San Francisco, and sadly the decimation of the local native population. San Francisco, United States, North America. — This colorful mural by San Francisco artist Guillermo Granizo represents the colonization of the San Francisco Bay Area by the Spanish, the creation of the great city of San Francisco, and sadly the decimation of the local native population.

The old mission cemetery. San Francisco, United States, North America. — The old mission cemetery.

Statue of Father Junipero Serra by California sculptor Arthur Putnam. Junipero Serra, the Spanish missionary who founded Mission Dolores, has a controversial legacy due to the suppression of local native culture and eventual decimation of the population. California, United States, North America. — Statue of Father Junipero Serra by California sculptor Arthur Putnam. Junipero Serra, the Spanish missionary who founded Mission Dolores, has a controversial legacy due to the suppression of local native culture and eventual decimation of the population.

Replica of a dwelling of the Ohlone people on the grounds of Mission Dolores. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Replica of a dwelling of the Ohlone people on the grounds of Mission Dolores.

The simple, elegant exterior of Mission Dolores, San Francisco's oldest building, built in 1791. San Francisco, United States, North America. — The simple, elegant exterior of Mission Dolores, San Francisco’s oldest building, built in 1791.

The exterior of the Spanish Colonial Revival Mission Dolores Basilica, right next to Mission Dolores on Dolores Street. San Francisco, United States, North America. — The exterior of the Spanish Colonial Revival Mission Dolores Basilica, right next to Mission Dolores on Dolores Street.

The San Francisco Mint sits across Market Street from the northern end of Dolores Street. It replaced the Old U.S. Mint in 1937 when the older building could no longer keep up with demand. San Francisco, United States, North America. — The San Francisco Mint sits across Market Street from the northern end of Dolores Street. It replaced the Old U.S. Mint in 1937 when the older building could no longer keep up with demand.

At the northern end of Dolores Street is "California Volunteers", a very cool Spanish-American War memorial by Bay Area sculptor Douglas Tilden. San Francisco, United States, North America. — At the northern end of Dolores Street is “California Volunteers”, a very cool Spanish-American War memorial by Bay Area sculptor Douglas Tilden.

The Castro

By now, I had already had a fantabulous day in the Mission having enjoyed Dolores Park, Mission Dolores, and most of all the Mission’s murals. Now I was looking forward to doing some exploration in the Castro, a neighborhood I already knew pretty well. You may remember that in 2016 I became a Castro Ambassador.

Out and About in the Castro

Pink Triangle Park honors gay people persecuted by the Nazis in the Holocaust. It's the only such memorial in the country and one of about a half dozen or so in the world. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Pink Triangle Park honors gay people persecuted by the Nazis in the Holocaust. It’s the only such memorial in the country and one of about a half dozen or so in the world.

Everything's pink at Pink Triangle Park. Even the roses. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Everything’s pink at Pink Triangle Park. Even the roses.

The Alfred E. Clarke Mansion, known as Clarke's Folly. Clarke was a colorful Irish immigrant who rose to Chief of Police and then became a lawyer. He built this Baroque Queen Anne mansion in 1892 for an outrageous sum. At the time, Eureka Valley (the area now known as the Castro) was considered to be way out in the boondocks. So Clarke could not convince his wife to leave Nob Hill for such a remote location even though he had built it for her. Since 1909, it has been an apartment house with 15 elegant apartments. San Francisco, United States, North America. — The Alfred E. Clarke Mansion, known as Clarke’s Folly. Clarke was a colorful Irish immigrant who rose to Chief of Police and then became a lawyer. He built this Baroque Queen Anne mansion in 1892 for an outrageous sum. At the time, Eureka Valley (the area now known as the Castro) was considered to be way out in the boondocks. So Clarke could not convince his wife to leave Nob Hill for such a remote location even though he had built it for her. Since 1909, it has been an apartment house with 15 elegant apartments.

Even by Castro standards, Seward Mini Park is a somewhat strange attraction. 2 concrete slides run down the steep hill. Adults must be accompanied by children! (I didn't want to look creepy, so I didn't linger too long.) Apparently the slides were designed by a 14-year-old girl. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Even by Castro standards, Seward Mini Park is a somewhat strange attraction. 2 concrete slides run down the steep hill. Adults must be accompanied by children! (I didn’t want to look creepy, so I didn’t linger too long.) Apparently the slides were designed by a 14-year-old girl.

A colorful flying creature takes a rest in Seward Mini Park. San Francisco, United States, North America. — A colorful flying creature takes a rest in Seward Mini Park.

Student art on the outside of Harvey Milk Civil Rights Academy--a public K thru 5 school where the curriculum has an emphasis on civil rights. It is named after Harvey Milk--the pioneering gay politician played by Sean Penn in the Oscar-winning "Milk". San Francisco, United States, North America. — Student art on the outside of Harvey Milk Civil Rights Academy–a public K thru 5 school where the curriculum has an emphasis on civil rights. It is named after Harvey Milk–the pioneering gay politician played by Sean Penn in the Oscar-winning “Milk”.

The GLBT History Museum

The GLBT History Museum, in the heart of the Castro, is dedicated to the history and culture of San Francisco’s LGBT community. It is the second such museum in the world after Berlin’s Schwules Museum. My friend Domenic met up with me at the museum and joined me for the rest of the day.

[WARNING! The following section contains a photograph of an art exhibition depicting explicit sexual activity.]

A detail from the poignant exhibition "Dancers We Lost", which honors performers lost to AIDS. San Francisco, United States, North America. — A detail from the poignant exhibition “Dancers We Lost”, which honors performers lost to AIDS.

Selections from "Stroke: From Under the Mattress to the Museum Walls", an exhibition of gay erotic art being installed at the time of my visit to the GLBT History Museum. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Selections from “Stroke: From Under the Mattress to the Museum Walls”, an exhibition of gay erotic art being installed at the time of my visit to the GLBT History Museum.

Items from the life of pioneering gay politician Harvey Milk. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Items from the life of pioneering gay politician Harvey Milk.

"Leather David" also known as "Febe's Man", a famous statue inspired by Michelangelo's "David". It occupied a San Francisco gay bar for 2 decades. San Francisco, United States, North America. — “Leather David” also known as “Febe’s Man”, a famous statue inspired by Michelangelo’s “David”. It occupied a San Francisco gay bar for 2 decades.

Matchbooks from gay and lesbian bars located in the Mission in the '70s. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Matchbooks from gay and lesbian bars located in the Mission in the ’70s.

Copy of a flier that was posted around the Castro during an increase of gay-bashing in the neighborhood in the '70s. At the bottom, victims are encouraged to contact Harvey Milk's camera shop. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Copy of a flier that was posted around the Castro during an increase of gay-bashing in the neighborhood in the ’70s. At the bottom, victims are encouraged to contact Harvey Milk’s camera shop.

Extravagant earrings worn by legendary drag/transgender performer Vicki Marlane. She began performing in the '50s and continued on into the 21st century. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Extravagant earrings worn by legendary drag/transgender performer Vicki Marlane. She began performing in the ’50s and continued on into the 21st century.

Rainbow Honor Walk

The sidewalks of the Castro are lined with plaques honoring notable LGBT individuals who are no longer with us. Below is a selection of honorees’ plaques.

[WARNING! The following section contains a photograph of an art exhibition depicting dolls that are anatomically correct, if somewhat exaggerated!]

Poet, activist, and Beat Generation icon Allen Ginsberg. We previously learned about Allen at the Beat Museum in North Beach. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Poet, activist, and Beat Generation icon Allen Ginsberg. We previously learned about Allen at the Beat Museum in North Beach.

New York '80s pop art icon Keith Haring succumbed to AIDS at 31. San Francisco, United States, North America. — New York ’80s pop art icon Keith Haring succumbed to AIDS at 31.

Bayard Rustin was an important leader in the Civil Rights Movement and a close adviser to Martin Luther King. He was controversial with some in the Civil Rights Movement because he was gay. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Bayard Rustin was an important leader in the Civil Rights Movement and a close adviser to Martin Luther King. He was controversial with some in the Civil Rights Movement because he was gay.

At Castro & 19th, where the Rainbow Honor Walk turns west, a creative Castro resident has filled his apartment windows with provocative displays of dolls. Some are comical. Some, like the ones here, are political. San Francisco, United States, North America. — At Castro & 19th, where the Rainbow Honor Walk turns west, a creative Castro resident has filled his apartment windows with provocative displays of dolls. Some are comical. Some, like the ones here, are political.

Randy Shilts, chronicler of the AIDS epidemic, most notably with his book "And The Band Played On". He succumbed to AIDS at 42. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Randy Shilts, chronicler of the AIDS epidemic, most notably with his book “And The Band Played On”. He succumbed to AIDS at 42.

The Rainbow Honor Walk passes by the former site of Harvey Milk's camera shop, a center for activism in the '70s. A mural shows him looking out the window from his apartment above the shop. San Francisco, United States, North America. — The Rainbow Honor Walk passes by the former site of Harvey Milk’s camera shop, a center for activism in the ’70s. A mural shows him looking out the window from his apartment above the shop.

Expat lesbian literary legend Gertrude Stein. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Expat lesbian literary legend Gertrude Stein.

Local disco diva Sylvester succumbed to AIDS at 41. He made us feel mighty real. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Local disco diva Sylvester succumbed to AIDS at 41. He made us feel mighty real.

British computer genius Alan Turing, played by Benedict Cumberbatch in the Oscar-Winning "The Imitation Game". San Francisco, United States, North America. — British computer genius Alan Turing, played by Benedict Cumberbatch in the Oscar-Winning “The Imitation Game”.

Oscar Wilde, master of wit and grande dame of gay icons. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Oscar Wilde, master of wit and grande dame of gay icons.

Walking along the Rainbow Honor Walk, you can't miss the Castro Theatre. Built in 1922, it is the Castro's greatest landmark. It's also San Francisco's most spectacular movie house, complete with a live organist and the iconic neon sign outside. The façade is designed in a Spanish Colonial Baroque style, reminiscent of the nearby Mission Dolores Basilica. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Walking along the Rainbow Honor Walk, you can’t miss the Castro Theatre. Built in 1922, it is the Castro’s greatest landmark. It’s also San Francisco’s most spectacular movie house, complete with a live organist and the iconic neon sign outside. The façade is designed in a Spanish Colonial Baroque style, reminiscent of the nearby Mission Dolores Basilica.

20th century literary giant, James Baldwin. San Francisco, United States, North America. — 20th century literary giant, James Baldwin.

More Castro History

The Castro is such a festive place. But so many of the sights to see in the neighborhood call to mind terrible sadness and loss that its residents have endured.