The Richmond and the Presidio

The Richmond

I was really excited about Day 5. I was looking forward to traipsing around the Presidio, an iconic San Francisco site I had never been to. And most of all, I was looking forward to getting up close and personal with the Golden Gate Bridge. But first up on Day 5 was San Francisco’s Richmond District. As the Richmond is way out in the western wilds of San Francisco, I was not very familiar with the neighborhood. I set out in the morning across the city by bus with my friend Francisco. We were quite impressed with the Richmond’s sacred spaces.

Holy Virgin Cathedral

I bet you weren’t expecting to find a grand Russian Orthodox cathedral in San Francisco. I surely hadn’t been. In the context of an American city, coming upon such a sight is somewhat surprising. And wait till you see the inside!

Wow! The interior of the Holy Virgin Cathedral. Who knew you'd find such a spectacle in San Francisco! United States, North America. — Wow! The interior of the Holy Virgin Cathedral. Who knew you’d find such a spectacle in San Francisco!

Under the central dome at the Holy Virgin Cathedral. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Under the central dome at the Holy Virgin Cathedral.

Beautiful stained glass cross at the Holy Virgin Cathedral. You can make out the gilded halos of the many saints in the mural on the interior wall. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Beautiful stained glass cross at the Holy Virgin Cathedral. You can make out the gilded halos of the many saints in the mural on the interior wall.

The jaw-dropping interior of the Holy Virgin Cathedral. San Francisco, United States, North America. — The jaw-dropping interior of the Holy Virgin Cathedral.

A colorful niche in the Holy Virgin Cathedral. San Francisco, United States, North America. — A colorful niche in the Holy Virgin Cathedral.

The San Francisco Columbarium

The neo-classical Columbarium, built in 1895 and completely refurbished in 1980. San Francisco, United States, North America. — The neo-classical Columbarium, built in 1895 and completely refurbished in 1980.

I never knew that a columbarium is a place where ashes of the deceased are stored. Did you?

Inside the stunning rotunda of the San Francisco Columbarium. Somewhere are memorials to Roddy McDowell and Harvey Milk. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Inside the stunning rotunda of the San Francisco Columbarium. Somewhere are memorials to Roddy McDowell and Harvey Milk.

Blazing stained glass in the San Francisco Columbarium. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Blazing stained glass in the San Francisco Columbarium.

A couple's joyous memorial in the San Francisco Columbarium. San Francisco, United States, North America. — A couple’s joyous memorial in the San Francisco Columbarium.

Temple Emanu-El

Congregation Emanu-El was founded in 1850 by a group of primarily Bavarian Jews. These were the Jews we learned about on Day 1 who had come to San Francisco in the Gold Rush and observed the first Jewish services in San Francisco. Only congregants are allowed in the temple on Saturdays for services, so Francisco and I returned later on a weekday to get a tour.

A sneak peek inside the courtyard at Temple Emanu-el. San Francisco, United States, North America. — A sneak peek inside the courtyard at Temple Emanu-el.

The Presidio/Golden Gate

A view across the Presidio from Inspiration Point Lookout to the dome of the Palace of Fine Arts and Alcatraz. San Francisco, United States, North America. — A view across the Presidio from Inspiration Point Lookout to the dome of the Palace of Fine Arts and Alcatraz.

For over 200 years, the Presidio of San Francisco was a military installation presiding over 1,500 acres of some of San Francisco’s most prime real estate. It was first established by the Spanish in 1776. Today it is a National Park Service site and part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area.

The Officers’ Club

Francisco and I hiked across the Presidio grounds along the Ecology Trail to the Presidio Officers’ Club. The Officers’ Club competes with Mission Dolores for the designation of San Francisco’s most historic building. (The Presidio and the mission were both established in 1776.) The Officers’ Club was built in the ’30s, but it incorporates structural elements of the original Spanish fort. (I think that fact gives Mission Dolores the edge.) No longer serving the military elite, the Officers’ Club is now a museum and cultural center.

In the museum at the Presidio Officers' Club, a traditional basket made by a local artist who is a descendant of the indigenous Ohlone people whom we previously learned about at Mission Dolores. San Francisco, United States, North America. — In the museum at the Presidio Officers’ Club, a traditional basket made by a local artist who is a descendant of the indigenous Ohlone people whom we previously learned about at Mission Dolores.

Hanging in the museum at the Presidio Officers' Club, a traditional feather cape made by the same Ohlone artist. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Hanging in the museum at the Presidio Officers’ Club, a traditional feather cape made by the same Ohlone artist.

A reproduction of the uniform of a Spanish colonial soldier in the museum at the Presidio Officers' Club. San Francisco, United States, North America. — A reproduction of the uniform of a Spanish colonial soldier in the museum at the Presidio Officers’ Club.

The view across the Presidio's Main Post to San Francisco Bay from a balcony at the Officers' Club. San Francisco, United States, North America. — The view across the Presidio’s Main Post to San Francisco Bay from a balcony at the Officers’ Club.

The Palace of Fine Arts

The Palace of Fine Arts is located immediately adjacent to the Presidio, at the very western edge of the Marina District. To me, it’s one of the strangest sights in San Francisco because it seems so entirely out of context. It was originally built for the 1915 Panama-Pacific Exhibition.

At the Palace of Fine Arts, Roman ruins, right here in San Francisco! United States, North America. — At the Palace of Fine Arts, Roman ruins, right here in San Francisco!

Lovely detail on the Palace of Fine Arts. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Lovely detail on the Palace of Fine Arts.

Crissy Field

The north shore of the Presidio was marshland until it was developed for the 1915 Panama-Pacific Exhibition. In the ’20s, it was redeveloped as Crissy Airfield, a major military aviation center. Now, like the rest of the Presidio, it’s open for enjoyment to everyone.

Nice view of Alcatraz from Crissy Field. (Alcatraz--you just can't escape from it!) San Francisco, United States, North America. — Nice view of Alcatraz from Crissy Field. (Alcatraz–you just can’t escape from it!)

Fort Point National Historic Site

It looks like Fort Point was tucked under the Golden Gate Bridge, but the bridge was built over the fort. Fort Point was built prior to the Civil War. San Francisco, United States, North America. — It looks like Fort Point was tucked under the Golden Gate Bridge, but the bridge was built over the fort. Fort Point was built prior to the Civil War.

Across the street from Crissy Field, I picked up a rental bike for what was the first ever bike ride on one of my sightseeing adventures. I specifically rented the bike to ride across the Golden Gate Bridge. (Francisco wasn’t interested in 2-wheeled transportation, so we parted ways after the Palace of Fine Art.) But the first stop on my ride was at Fort Point National Historic Site at the very tip of the San Francisco Peninsula.

The history at Fort Point has to compete with the incredible views of the Golden Gate Bridge--Man's Greatest Infrastructure Project. San Francisco, United States, North America. — The history at Fort Point has to compete with the incredible views of the Golden Gate Bridge–Man’s Greatest Infrastructure Project.

The parade ground and arched casemates on the interior of Fort Point. San Francisco, United States, North America. — The parade ground and arched casemates on the interior of Fort Point.

A corner view of the enormous powder magazine. Fort Point never saw any action, but it certainly was prepared. San Francisco, United States, North America. — A corner view of the enormous powder magazine. Fort Point never saw any action, but it certainly was prepared.

Part of an exhibit at Fort Point about the history of the Buffalo Soldiers. Buffalo Soldiers were members of all-black army regiments established by the US Congress in 1866. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Part of an exhibit at Fort Point about the history of the Buffalo Soldiers. Buffalo Soldiers were members of all-black army regiments established by the US Congress in 1866.

The lighthouse at Fort Point. The construction of the Golden Gate Bridge made the lighthouse obsolete. San Francisco, United States, North America. — The lighthouse at Fort Point. The construction of the Golden Gate Bridge made the lighthouse obsolete.

The enviable view of the Golden Gate Bridge from the top level of Fort Point. San Francisco, United States, North America. — The enviable view of the Golden Gate Bridge from the top level of Fort Point.

Beautiful view of the San Francisco skyline from Fort Point. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Beautiful view of the San Francisco skyline from Fort Point.

My final view of the magnificent Golden Gate Bridge before I begin my 2-wheeled trek over it. San Francisco, United States, North America. — My final view of the magnificent Golden Gate Bridge before I begin my 2-wheeled trek over it.

The Golden Gate Bridge

You might have guessed that I’m enamored with the Golden Gate Bridge. Who can blame me? I love bridges to begin with. They can be so graceful. And when it comes to elegance, no other bridge can come close to the GGB. And now, for the first time, I was going to ride a bike across it!

By the way, did you know that the Golden Gate is the name for the strait that connects San Francisco Bay and the Pacific Ocean? I had assumed that the Golden Gate was a reference to the gold that made San Francisco rich. But the name predates the Gold Rush. I guess it is beauty that gives the Golden Gate its preciousness.

View of the San Francisco skyline from the Golden Gate Bridge. San Francisco, United States, North America. — View of the San Francisco skyline from the Golden Gate Bridge.

I’d driven over the Golden Gate Bridge many times over the previous 30 years. But I never really appreciated its length till I rode a bike over it. When it opened in 1937, it was the longest suspension bridge in the world, at 1.7 miles. It kept that distinction until 1964, when the longer Verrazano-Narrow Bridge in New York opened. No matter, it still is and always will be the world’s most beautiful piece of engineering.

This view happens to be my most popular picture on Instagram to date. Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, United States, North America. — This view happens to be my most popular picture on Instagram to date.

For a very long time, building a bridge across the Golden Gate was considered impossible. The water was too deep and too treacherous, the wind was too strong, and the fog was too thick. All of these conditions would make construction very hazardous. By the ’30s, technology had caught up. And so had demand.

Baker Beach

After I dropped off my bike, I hopped on the free Presidio shuttle bus and rode across the Presidio’s vast grounds. After a short hike, I hit the beach!

A view from the Presidio before I hiked down to the beach. San Francisco, United States, North America. — A view from the Presidio before I hiked down to the beach.

Down the Sand Ladder to the great Pacific Ocean. (As I'm from the East Coast, the Pacific is still a big deal to me.) San Francisco, United States, North America. — Down the Sand Ladder to the great Pacific Ocean. (As I’m from the East Coast, the Pacific is still a big deal to me.)

I had never seen this view of the Golden Gate Bridge before, so it was pretty exciting. Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, United States, North America. — I had never seen this view of the Golden Gate Bridge before, so it was pretty exciting.

This beach comes with an unsurpassed view (even with the fog)! Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, United States, North America. — This beach comes with an unsurpassed view (even with the fog)!

One word: Wow!

[Factual information is primarily gathered from Wikipedia, so you know it must be true.]