Civic Center

It took more than halfway through my 2nd year of sightseeing around San Francisco to finally tour around the Civic Center. The Civic Center is a complex of government and cultural buildings built in primarily the Beaux-Arts style. As you can see in the pictures, my good fortune with blue skies finally gave out.

Civic Center Plaza

San Francisco City Hall seen from across Van Ness Avenue. San Francisco, United States, North America. — San Francisco City Hall seen from across Van Ness Avenue.

Civic Center Plaza was developed after the great earthquake of 1906. San Francisco needed a new City Hall because the earlier one was destroyed in the quake. The powers that be decided to build a grand monumental complex befitting the grand city.

The War Memorial Opera House was completed in 1932 as one of the last major Beaux-Arts buildings built in the US. San Francisco, United States, North America. — The War Memorial Opera House was completed in 1932 as one of the last major Beaux-Arts buildings built in the US.

Next to the Opera House is its twin, Herbst Theatre. It was originally called Veterans Auditorium. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Next to the Opera House is its twin, Herbst Theatre. It was originally called Veterans Auditorium.

Together, the Opera House and Herbst Theatre are the original components of the San Francisco War Memorial and Performing Arts Center. Davis Symphony Hall and Zellerbach Rehearsal Hall were added in subsequent decades. The Opera House and Herbst Theatre are steeped in history. Much of the planning of the United Nations was done in the Opera House. The UN Charter was signed in Herbst Theatre (then the Veterans Auditorium) in 1945. The post-war peace treaty between Japan and the Allies was signed in the Opera House in 1951.

San Francisco City Hall was built 1913-1916. Its dome is 42 feet taller than the dome of the US Capitol in DC. San Francisco, United States, North America. — San Francisco City Hall was built 1913-1916. Its dome is 42 feet taller than the dome of the US Capitol in DC.

Because I do most of my local sightseeing on Saturdays, I returned later in the year on a day off from work to get interior tours of City Hall and the San Francisco War Memorial and Performing Arts Center. Tours are only given on weekdays.

The Great Seal of the State of California on a state government building. Who remembers the seal in a mosaic on the floor of the Ferry Building? San Francisco, United States, North America. — The Great Seal of the State of California on a state government building. Who remembers the seal in a mosaic on the floor of the Ferry Building?

A decorative entrance to City Hall. San Francisco, United States, North America. — A decorative entrance to City Hall.

Neo-classical pediment over the entrance at City Hall. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Neo-classical pediment over the entrance at City Hall.

The San Francisco Civic Auditorium opened in 1915. In 1992, it was renamed the Bill Graham Civic Auditorium after the well known rock impresario. San Francisco, United States, North America. — The San Francisco Civic Auditorium opened in 1915. In 1992, it was renamed the Bill Graham Civic Auditorium after the well known rock impresario.

Civic Center Monuments

In '49, a bronze sculpture representing the California Gold Rush at the foot of the Pioneer Monument. San Francisco, United States, North America. — *In ’49*, a bronze sculpture representing the California Gold Rush at the foot of the Pioneer Monument.

The Pioneer Monument stands across Civic Center Plaza from City Hall. It consists of a main granite monument supporting a bronze of Athena, with other bronzes around the base. It has not been without controversy.

The main component of the Pioneer Monument, featuring a statue of Athena, aka Minerva, goddess of wisdom and war. San Francisco, United States, North America. — The main component of the Pioneer Monument, featuring a statue of Athena, aka Minerva, goddess of wisdom and war.

One of the 4 bronze reliefs on the Pioneer Monument. I believe this one is titled Crossing the Sierra. San Francisco, United States, North America. — One of the 4 bronze reliefs on the Pioneer Monument. I believe this one is titled *Crossing the Sierra*.

I was shocked when I saw Early Days, another component of the Pioneer Monument. It consists of a Spanish cowboy, a Spanish missionary, and a very subserviently posed Native American. After decades of controversy, a plaque was added in 1996 explained that the sculpture represented an outmoded view of Native Americans. But that wasn't enough. In 2018, the entire sculpture was removed. San Francisco, United States, North America. — I was shocked when I saw *Early Days*, another component of the Pioneer Monument. It consists of a Spanish cowboy, a Spanish missionary, and a very subserviently posed Native American. After decades of controversy, a plaque was added in 1996 explaining that the sculpture represented an outmoded view of Native Americans. But that wasn’t enough. In 2018, the entire sculpture was removed.

A little further east, an equestrian statue of Simón Bolívar--liberator of Columbia, Ecuador, Panama, Peru, and Venezuela and founder of Bolivia--in United Nations Plaza. San Francisco, United States, North America. — A little further east, an equestrian statue of Simón Bolívar–liberator of Columbia, Ecuador, Panama, Peru, and Venezuela and founder of Bolivia–in United Nations Plaza.

Asian Art Museum

The Asian Art Museum is located in what was previously the San Francisco Public Library, across Civic Center Plaza from City Hall. The Public Library has since moved into a newer building next door. I just gobbled up the Asian Art Museum. Its collection is really fantastic. It houses one of the world’s premier collections of Asian art.

Dragon Fortune by Taiwanese artist Hung Yi (2014) fit right in naturally with the ongoing Summer of Love anniversary celebrations in San Francisco. It incorporates traditional Taiwanese and Japanese designs along more non-traditional traditions. San Francisco, United States, North America. — *Dragon Fortune* by Taiwanese artist Hung Yi (2014) fit right in naturally with the ongoing Summer of Love anniversary celebrations in San Francisco. It incorporates traditional Taiwanese and Japanese designs along more non-traditional traditions.

I had a particular appreciation for the Asian Art Museum’s collections. After all, it was just 5 months since my trip to India. But not only that, my 3 previous sightseeing trips were all to Asia: Southeast Asia, Southwest Asia, and China. (And that’s not to mention my subsequent trip to East Asia.)

Okay, we’ve lingered outside the museum long enough. Let’s go in! I hope you’re dazzled like I was, at least a little.

South Asia

15th-century Indian granite sculpture of Nandi. Nandi the bull is the faithful mount of Lord Shiva. San Francisco, United States, North America. — 15th-century Indian granite sculpture of Nandi. Nandi the bull is the faithful mount of Lord Shiva.

11th-12th-century Indian stone sculpture of the Buddhist deity Vajra Tara. San Francisco, United States, North America. — 11th-12th-century Indian stone sculpture of the Buddhist deity Vajra Tara.

The Buddha triumphing over the demon Mara in basalt from 10th-century India. San Francisco, United States, North America. — The Buddha triumphing over the demon Mara in basalt from 10th-century India.

Krishna playing the flute in granite from 15th-century India. San Francisco, United States, North Amereica. — Krishna playing the flute in granite from 15th-century India.

This Indian elephant throne (howdah) reminded me of my visit to Mehrangarh in Jodhpur, where I'd seen similar carriages. This one is gilded and painted silver over wood. San Francisco, United States, North America. — This Indian elephant throne (howdah) reminded me of my visit to Mehrangarh in Jodhpur, where I’d seen similar carriages. This one is gilded and painted silver over wood.

The Persian World and West Asia

This Qur'an with gold definitely reminded me of my trip to Southwest Asia (aka West Asia), especially the Beit Al Qur'an in Bahrain. This manuscript is from 16th-century Iran. San Francisco, United States, North America. — This Qur’an with gold definitely reminded me of my trip to Southwest Asia (aka West Asia), especially the Beit Al Qur’an in Bahrain. This manuscript is from 16th-century Iran.

Bronze cheekpiece of a horse bridle from Iran, hundreds of years BC. Pretty cheeky! San Francisco, United States, North America. — Bronze cheekpiece of a horse bridle from Iran, hundreds of years BC. Pretty cheeky!

Beautiful Iranian bowl from the 13th or 14th century with gold leaf. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Beautiful Iranian bowl from the 13th or 14th century with gold leaf.

Southeast Asia

Shiva and Parvati in sandstone from 10th- or 11th-century Cambodia. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Shiva and Parvati in sandstone from 10th- or 11th-century Cambodia.

I can't see a reclining Buddha without thinking of "One Night in Bangkok". This one is a gilded bronze from 17th-century Thailand. San Francisco, United States, North America. — I can’t see a reclining Buddha without thinking of “One Night in Bangkok”. This one is a gilded bronze from 17th-century Thailand.

A beautiful Balinese kris, a ceremonial dagger. It's from the late 19th or early 20th century and decorated with silver, gold, and jewels. That's a wavy-bladed kris off to the left. San Francisco, United States, North America. — A beautiful Balinese kris, a ceremonial dagger. It’s from the late 19th or early 20th century and decorated with silver, gold, and jewels. That’s a wavy-bladed kris off to the left.

This brightly painted demon is a 19th-century Balinese kris-holder. San Francisco, United States, North America. — This brightly painted demon is a 19th-century Balinese kris-holder.

Stunning Southeast Asian accessories. A gold headdress from 19th-century Sumatra and a gilded silver belt from late 18th- or early 20th century Malaysia. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Stunning Southeast Asian accessories. A gold headdress from 19th-century Sumatra and a gilded silver belt from late 18th- or early 20th century Malaysia.

This 19th-century Thai gilt bronze Buddha is stunning to look at. But that's not all. The crown can be removed, revealing a small storage space. San Francisco, United States, North America. — This 19th-century Thai gilt bronze Buddha is stunning to look at. But that’s not all. The crown can be removed, revealing a small storage space.

The Himalayas and the Tibetan Buddhist World

Naramsimha tearing apart a demon in bronze from 16th-century Tibet. (Despite this being the Buddhist world, Naramsimha is Hindu. It's cool.) San Francisco, United States, North America. — Naramsimha tearing apart a demon in bronze from 16th-century Tibet. (Despite this being the Buddhist world, Naramsimha is Hindu. It’s cool.)

China

A fabulous room of jades. San Francisco, United States, North America. — A fabulous room of jades.

A bronze vessel in the shape of a rhinoceros from 11th-century BC China in the Shang Dynasty. San Francisco, United States, North America. — A bronze vessel in the shape of a rhinoceros from 11th-century BC China in the Shang Dynasty.

I always love these fierce Chinese guardians. These are tomb guardians from the Tang Dynasty (608-906). San Francisco, United States, North America. — I always love these fierce Chinese guardians. These are tomb guardians from the Tang Dynasty (608-906).

Gilded bronze Buddha from 338 during the Warring States period. It's the earliest known dated Chinese Buddha. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Gilded bronze Buddha from 338 during the Warring States period. It’s the earliest known dated Chinese Buddha.

A very chilled-out looking Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara from 12th-century China in the Song Dynasty. San Francisco, United States, North America. — A very chilled-out looking Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara from 12th-century China in the Song Dynasty.

Colorful seated Buddha from 16th-century China during the fabulous Ming Dynasty. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Colorful seated Buddha from 16th-century China during the fabulous Ming Dynasty.

Beautiful porcelain. A large jar from the 16th century during the fabulous Ming Dynasty. And a 17th- or 18th-century vase during the ill-fated Qing Dynasty. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Beautiful porcelain. A large jar from the 16th century during the fabulous Ming Dynasty. And a 17th- or 18th-century vase during the ill-fated Qing Dynasty.

A really cool display of snuff bottles. Snuff was introduced to China by Europeans during the 17th century. Maybe that's what led to the downfall of the Qing Dynasty. San Francisco, United States, North America. — A really cool display of snuff bottles. Snuff was introduced to China by Europeans during the 17th century. Maybe that’s what led to the downfall of the Qing Dynasty.

How cute are these 18th-century ritual water vessels. Maybe the Qing Dynasty should have laid off the snuff and stuck to water. San Francisco, United States, North America. — How cute are these 18th-century ritual water vessels. Maybe the Qing Dynasty should have laid off the snuff and stuck to water.

Japan

Very cool figure of Shinto deity Zao Gongen from the 19th century. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Very cool figure of Shinto deity Zao Gongen from the 19th century.

The Esoteric Buddhist king of passion Ragaraja from the 17th century. San Francisco, United States, North America. — The Esoteric Buddhist king of passion Ragaraja from the 17th century.

17th-century Samurai helmet and face mask. San Francisco, United States, North America. — 17th-century Samurai helmet and face mask.

19th-century suit of armor. This warrior will now chase us out of the Asian Art Museum and insist we get some fresh air. San Francisco, United States, North America. — 19th-century suit of armor. This warrior will now chase us out of the Asian Art Museum and insist we get some fresh air.

I don’t have any pictures from the Asian Art Museum’s Korean collection. But don’t worry. I more than make up for it with my trip to Korea in 2018.

The Tenderloin

The Tenderloin is a neighborhood north and northeast of the Civic Center. It has a reputation of being blight-ridden, with lots of poverty, drug use, prostitution, and other urban disorders. It’s also an arts district. As a matter of fact, we passed through the Tenderloin during the 2016 sightseeing season when I stumbled across Veterans Alley. Here are a couple more sights in the Tenderloin.

Slightly disturbing 7-story mural Self Consuming Self - Dave. San Francisco, United States, North America. — Slightly disturbing 7-story mural *Self Consuming Self – Dave*.

This concert hall has been through many incarnations since opening in 1907, right after the earthquake. It's been the Great American Music Hall since 1972. I wish I could have toured the ornate interior. San Francisco, United States, North America. — This concert hall has been through many incarnations since opening in 1907, right after the earthquake. It’s been the Great American Music Hall since 1972. I wish I could have toured the ornate interior.

Shortly after passing by the Great American Music Hall, I crossed Van Ness Avenue and the Great San Francisco Adventure continued.

[Factual information is primarily gathered from Wikipedia, so you know it must be true.]